Rachel Khoo: do the twist

I write this fresh from a trip to Provence. As I kissed Paris’ snowstorm goodbye, I fantasised about al fresco breakfasts on a sun-drenched terrace. Just the week before, spring had sprung in the South of France, and the markets were displaying the first of the season’s asparagus and strawberries. But the reality was somewhat different. The famous mistral wind was sweeping in at a maddening 120km/h.

While the weather didn’t live up to expectations, the aperitifs and their accompaniments did. Forget scant bowls of peanuts, here you expect nothing less than a heaped bowl of olive tapenade with crostini, or savoury madeleines studded with lardons, to accompany your evening tipple. Inspired by the abundance of asparagus and the local appetite for anchoïade (anchovy paste), here is the perfect partner for a glass of rosé.

Asparagus and anchovy twists

Makes 12

6 anchovies

1 tbsp olive oil

200g puff pastry

12 asparagus tips (about 12cm long)

Egg wash (1 egg mixed with a splash of water)

1 tbsp sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Bash the anchovies in a pestle and mortar and add the olive oil to make a spreadable paste. Roll out the puff pastry to a rectangle 24cm x 16cm and approximately 4mm thick. Spread the anchovy paste on the puff pastry, right to the edges, as evenly as you can. Cut the pastry into 12 x 2cm strips. Take the first strip and place the end of one asparagus tip at the bottom of the strip at a 45-degree angle. Roll the asparagus up the strip, wrapping the pastry around it as you go. Place the twist on the baking tray and repeat with the remaining asparagus tips and pastry strips. When all the twists are on the tray, use a pastry brush to lightly brush the pastry with egg wash. Sprinkle the sesame seeds over the pastry. Bake for 20 minutes, or until crisp and puffy. Serve with a glass of chilled rosé wine.