Well, the first four will be the ones laid on by my work canteen next week: all the trimmings plus mince pie consumed over consecutive lunchtimes, on my own, in total silence. By the third or fourth return visit every rational part of me is saying, ‘Look, Ben, listen: you don’t have to eat yet another roast turkey lunch simply because it’s there.’ But then another, deeper, altogether more primal part of me will whisper… ‘Yes… yes you do. Eat it. It’s a tradition. And the way you keep traditions alive is by doing them. Day after day. On your own.’ So I do.