The south west is best, says Molly Cooper

From endless skies and soaring cliffs to feast nights on the sand and beach after divine beach, Devon and Cornwall are heaven on Earth for the travel curator
4 days ago

Where is your favourite destination and why?

The mighty South West — Devon and Cornwall. That craggy peninsula that for hundreds of years stood as a fiercely independent kingdom and still feels like somewhere that operates on its own terms. It’s a land of ancient rainforests, seemingly endless coastline and a kind of raw, elemental luxury that’s impossible to recreate. There’s nowhere else quite like it in Britain.

When was the last time you were there, and who were you with?

I was there for the spring equinox with my partner. His family has a farm overlooking Bodmin Moor in Cornwall with endless skies in every direction. The sun came out, and when it does, there is no better place on Earth to be.

Bodmin Moor
Bodmin Moor
Ian Woolcock - stock.adobe.com

Where do you like to stay?

I’m drawn to the wild northern coastline. It’s rugged and slightly overlooked compared to the softer, more polished south coast, which is part of its charm. You dive down from open moors to soaring black cliffs and tiny hamlets scattered along the shore. Head to Bude for the famous ocean pool, Crackington Haven for some of the most stunning clifftop walks in the country, and Padstow for the food scene.

Your favourite meal there?

On a recent podcast recording trip, my co-founder Alex and I recently stayed at Fowlescombe Farm where the food was a real highlight. It’s a regenerative farm, so as much as possible comes from the land and kitchen garden, with the rest sourced from carefully chosen local suppliers. You eat at a long communal table with an open kitchen and in autumn it was wonderfully moody. Most importantly, the cocktails were exceptional.

“Head to the beach for a sauna session on the sand and finish off with dinner and a proper sea shanty in Port Isaac. Tricky to beat”

Molly Cooper

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

I’d head straight to Harlyn Bay, walk along the clifftops and then down to the beach for a sauna session right on the sand. Then, swim and surf if the conditions are right or simply lie in the sun. Finish it off with dinner and a proper sea shanty in Port Isaac. Tricky to beat.

Port Isaac
Port Isaac
U-JINN Photography - stock.adobe.com

Three favourite restaurants?

I’d have to say the Four Boys Café in Rock — it’s Gordon Ramsay-approved and insanely good, with the queues to prove it! My go-to dish would be the scallops when they’re available. Another favourite is The Bull Inn in Totnes, from organic pub pioneer Geetie Singh; it has a cult following for a reason. Lots of seasonal small plates featuring local produce — I still think about their Jerusalem artichokes today. And then there’s The

Hidden Hut, which isn’t your traditional restaurant per se, but you just can’t beat Simon Stallard’s legendary feast nights with long trestle tables right on the beach and seafood barbecued before you.

What is the one unmissable thing you recommend?

If you’re making the journey to this part of the world, it has to be beach, beach and more beach. Arguably the finest is Tregardock, which is completely submerged at high tide and requires a bit of a walk to reach. Usually, you’ll have the entire sandy stretch almost entirely to yourself and, if the timing is right, enormous red sunsets slipping slowly into the sea.

Is there a hidden gem you’re willing to share?

If you’re in the region, you simply cannot miss Glebe House. Artist Olive and her chef husband Hugo transformed his family home into a creative and culinary gem. The interiors are whimsical and wonderful, the food is downright brilliant and they’re always hosting something special, from sardine suppers on the beach to fermenting workshops.

Where do you let your hair down?

There are so many great pubs to choose from so just pick one overlooking the sea and pile in with your nearest and dearest. Harbour House in Flushing is brilliant, right on the water’s edge. The Coombe Barton Inn in Crackington Haven buzzes with locals on Friday nights and you can take your pint down to the beach.

Molly Cooper
Molly Cooper is a travel curator
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Who do you call to have a good time there?

The team who run Kudhva. This landscape hotel is built on the site of an old quarry with cabins and Kudhva canvas tents overlooking the sea. The founder, Louise, is just brilliant and full of creative energy. She’s grown a really amazing team so you’ll rock up and next thing you’re heading down to the pub for a Sunday lunch with everyone or whizzing off to the beach with other travellers. It’s impossible not to leave with a whole new bunch of mates.

Favourite shops?

Finn’s Devon is one of my favourite delis, a specialist food shop, micro-bakery and coffee shop on the banks of the River Coly, and a proper destination in itself. Ashburton is unbeatable for antique rummaging. Down in St Mawes there are some brilliant independent galleries showcasing work by local artists. The Good Lyfe in Newquay is a plastic-free lifestyle store that’s perfect for a slow browse with a coffee in hand — in a reusable cup, of course.

The one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?

Something from the beach, always. A washed-up bottle, an interesting shell, a shard of glass worn smooth by the sea.

Your favourite beauty spot?

What I love most about this region is its raw approach to wellness — fresh sea air, vast skies and cold water therapy. But if you’re in the mood for something a little more manicured, there are some exceptional hotel spa offerings. The Scarlet’s spa is truly wonderful — it’s built right on the clifftop with open sea views and the sound of waves crashing down below.

Song that reminds you of the place?

Self Esteem — The Deep Blue Okay. Let’s just say it’s carried me through heartbreak and road trips and sunsets down there more times than I can count.

Have you ever had an emergency incident there?

Only one, and it involved a recently developed allergy to crustaceans and accidentally ordering the lobster. Lesson learned.

Dress code for the destination?

On the north coast, the locals love an oversized, fleecy gilet — the bigger and warmer the better. Pair it with a well-loved sweater and good shoes that can handle a clifftop hike and a pub floor. Down south there’s a more refined edge, so come summer, crack out the white linen.

Molly Cooper is co-founder of Curated Spaces, the world’s first travel booking platform powered by tastemakers; curatedspaces.club