Arrowtown, New Zealand: There’s travel gold in them there hills

I arrived in Arrowtown, a historic gold-mining village in New Zealand’s South Island, expecting a picturesque detour as part of a wider Otago itinerary and left plotting my return. Just a 20-minute drive from scenic but tourist-heavy Queenstown, think of Arrowtown as the under-the-radar cooler sibling.

We based ourselves at Arrowtown Escape, a cosy cottage run by luxury buyers’ agent Jo Eddington, whose warmth and love of local life set the tone. In the heart of the historic zone, her retreat sits a stone’s throw from the gorgeously stocked Royalburn Farm Shop, run by New Zealand MasterChef winner Nadia Lim. “Arrowtown reveals itself slowly; on foot, over coffee, between naps, and in the soft golden light of late afternoon,” Eddington tells me.

From the moment I arrived, I felt at home in the gentle rhythm of this riverside town and warmly welcomed by its sociable locals. There is live music spilling from pubs most evenings, an abundance of excellent restaurants, and everything unfolds against a backdrop of dramatic, tree-lined hills.

Arrowtown has, unsurprisingly, become a quiet magnet for those in the know, including a celebrity crowd. Locals tell me about Brad Pitt slipping into a yoga class (almost) unnoticed, and Jason Momoa casually pulling pints at The Fork & Tap. Then there is Ayrburn, which seductively describes itself as the area’s “most delicious destination… a delightfully daring food and wine playground.” I spent the better part of a day drifting around this sweeping estate just outside the village. A relaxed lunch at The Bakehouse, a wander through gardens that feel both curated and wild, and a fireside dinner at The Woolshed with a glass of local wine in hand. Billy’s, its Cantonese restaurant in a restored 19th-century homestead with a dazzling conservatory, is a stand-out.

Mornings in Arrowtown begin at Provisions with strong coffee and the best bread and butter pudding. From there, stroll to the Arrow River, with flat, shaded trails. Dishery, beside the historic Chinese village, makes an excellent beanbag brunch stop. The pretty main street is lined with repurposed miners’ cottages. Wolf Coffee Roasters often has queues out the door, or wander to the end of Buckingham Street to Crib, a tiny locals-only spot run from owner Daniel’s house. Mora Wines & Kitchen is elegant but unfussy, with garden tables that glow in the late afternoon light.

For something more casual, Slow Cuts and La Rumbla are buzzy favourites. Stylish Aosta celebrates its connection to Italy’s Aosta Valley, while Little Aosta serves excellent pizza. Swing by speakeasy-style bar The Blue Door for a cocktail. Just above sits Dorothy Browns Cinema; a tiny retro cinema, bookstore and gin bar. A stop at Patagonia Chocolates for gourmet ice cream is non-negotiable.

Shopping is another draw. Smith & Western is beautifully curated, filled with New Zealand-made fashion, jewellery and homeware. Nearby, Wilson & Dorset specialises in refined sheepskin pieces. The Sunday market is small but full of talented local bakers and makers. The Arrowtown Arts Trail, a Google Maps guide, is ideal for exploring at your own pace.

You can, of course, venture further. Board the TSS Earnslaw in Queenstown, a beautifully preserved steamship that glides across Lake Wakatipu, or head to the vineyards of Gibbston Valley. Then there are the dramatic landscapes of Glenorchy, where I ended my trip with a very special night at Rosewood Matakauri.

This luxury lodge is one for the bucket list. Framed by what are known as the “big three” mountains — The Remarkables, Cecil and Walter Peak — my suite opened onto one of the most arresting panoramas I have experienced. From the heated outdoor pool overlooking the lake to unhurried al fresco lunches, everything invites you to settle into the stillness. With just 13 rooms, suites and villas, this is a highly private escape with a friendly, flawless team. Little wonder this was where the Prince and Princess of Wales stayed during their visit.

On the way to the airport, I read a message from Eddington. “I hope you fell a little bit in love with Arrowtown — it has a way of doing that.” I absolutely did.

A stay at arrowtownescape.co.nz starts at £200 per night; rooms at Rosewood Matakauri from £800