Having a Malay Chinese father and an Austrian mother, and living in Paris, I’m hardly a slave to tradition. However, when I want to be decadent I find my inspiration in France, the country that unashamedly embraces it. At Christmas the French have a knack for nailing the tone of traditions. And when it comes to Christmas Eve, like the Italians, they feast on fish. This Christmas Eve dish has decadence written all over it, yet as an antidote to the hearty gastronomic onslaught of Christmas Day, it is a light, punchy, palate-preparing ‘salad’. It might impact on your finances, but it promises to leave your figure intact.