Many of us escape the gloom by planning our next sunny trip at this time of year: daydreaming of barbecues on the beach and sunbathed al fresco settings. For me, this salad is a holiday in a bowl, an exotic and sunny medley of raw and cooked, spicy and sweet. This Vietnamese classic exists in a wealth of variations, so feel free to play around with it. Shredded cabbage works a treat for its colour and crunch, but carrot would also work well. Squid can be substituted for prawns.