I grew up surrounded by generously yielding plum trees, and as a family we were constantly on the hunt for inspired ways to use up the lovely plums before age got the better of them. Stewed fruit, or ‘compôte’ as the French call it, is a great way of using up a surplus. Teamed with yoghurt it makes a virtuous breakfast, but pimped up with whipped cream and meringue it becomes an elegant finale to a feast. Think of this pudding as a deconstructed and autumnal Eton Mess, with squidgy meringues, a pillowy centre and lashings of whipped cream.