Rachel Khoo: Offally Nice

Liver, like Marmite, divides people. When I was a kid my mum had to disguise it in dishes such as spaghetti Bolognese, but now I can’t get enough of the stuff.

Prepared well, the myth of it tasting bitter simply isn’t true. And popular foodie hangouts, including Quo Vadis and Zucca, are dishing up this affordable and nutritious cut as an alternative to more mainstream meaty offerings.

I omit the old-fashioned technique of soaking the liver in milk as calf’s liver is mild-tasting (unlike ox, lamb or game). There’s not much preparation at all, which leaves time to make a fresh salsa gribiche and a crunchy coleslaw to complement the liver.

Pan-fried calf’s liver with a crunchy red cabbage coleslaw and salsa gribiche
Serves 2

For the liver
2 thin slices calf’s liver
2 tbsps butter
Salt

For the salsa gribiche
10 cornichons, finely chopped
1 handful flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
¼ clove garlic, crushed and minced
1 tsp French mustard
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

For the red cabbage coleslaw
1 wedge red cabbage, thinly sliced
½ lemon
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Pinch of salt
Pinch of sugar

Remove the liver from the fridge 15 minutes before cooking. Toss the red cabbage with the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and sugar. Check the seasoning and adjust to taste. Mix together the salsa ingredients and set aside. Add the butter to a large frying pan on a high heat. When the butter begins to sizzle add the slices of liver. Fry for two minutes on each side. Sprinkle with a little salt and serve immediately with the salsa and coleslaw.