The luxury-lover's guide to Bali

The Lowdown: The Hoshinoya brand’s first hospitality project outside of Japan is a true head-turner. Based in the upper, remote reaches above Ubud, the exclusive all-villa property sits on a lush hillside above the Pakerisan River, and features a UNESCO Heritage-branded irrigation canal (subak) which flows through the resort.

You’ll want to take lots of snaps at their Cafe Gazebo—a collection of jaw-dropping, cagey ‘pods’ suspended over jungle hills where one can dine, meditate or simply take in the views of the stunning river valley.

The Rooms: Accommodation is clustered into three Balinese-style villa ‘villages’, each with a canal-style swimming pool to which each villa has direct access. There are 30 total villas in three categories—but all similarly spacious—and smartly blend Balinese tradition (alang alang-topped gazebos, batik lampshades) with Japanese design sensibilities (minimal-chic teak furnishings and frameless futon beds).

Bedrooms feature stunning wood-carved wall units, with flora and fauna depictions that illuminate Bali’s cultural and religious motifs.

Food & Drink: Meals and drinks take place in a jungle-facing dining area, serving exquisite Balinese-inspired dishes for lunch and dinner; breakfast hosts Indonesian, American and Japanese selections and set menus. I highly recommend the 10-course set menu dinner to sample Balinese fare done with Japanese finesse—such as beef rendang rice, soto ayam (chicken soup) and wagyu beef tenderloin—all presented with creativity and care.

For a scenic dining experience, go for the Gazebo Breakfast, a light, picnic-style service with freshly-baked bread and pain au chocolat, fruits and salad at the atmospheric Cafe Gazebo.

The Spa: Accessing the resort’s spa area requires a dramatic hillside descent on an open-air funicular. What awaits are two enormous spa villas hosting an array of Balinese-style treatments including the two-hour Spicy Body Massage, which involves a deep-tissue massage with fragrant oil mixtures, scrub and a relaxing herbal bath.

Things to do: Complimentary yoga class run twice a day (sunrise and an evening ‘moonlight’ session) in an open-air pavilion, and there are also crafts workshops with visits to the resort’s own temple and Gamelan dance performances put on by local villagers. There’s a handy complimentary shuttle service to central Ubud that will get you into town in 30 or so minutes; or, you can shop in the resort’s own fabulous boutique store stocked with Balinese fashions, treats and smart souvenirs.

The Highs: It is one of Bali’s best-designed hotels, a marvellous blend of traditional and modern style and comfort, and verdant valley views will impress even the most jaded of travellers. High marks for the secluded spa; service was flawless.

The Lows: The semi-private ‘river’ pool concept is neat, but not the best choice for honeymooners or others seeking complete pool privacy provided at other five-star resorts. Food is excellent, but portions are a bit meagre.

Best For: Design enthusiasts, Japanophiles and serenity-seekers.

The Lowdown: The 20-year old resort veteran near central Ubud is still in top form: it was named World’s Best Hotel in 2018 by Travel + Leisure, an honour presumably given for its idyllic river valley location and mastery of luxury hospitality. Even checking in is unforgettable, involving a skybridge walk towards a gigantic, ‘floating’ rice bowl-shaped lotus pond with the resort's lush grounds and facilities tucked underneath.

No wonder the Obamas famously chose to stay here, hiding out in the sprawling three-bedroom Royal Villa and white-water rafting down the Ayung River, one of the resort’s many excursions on offer.

The Rooms: There are 18 suites and 42 broadly-spread villas. For the villas, one starts from the pond-topped ‘roof’ and descend to the traditional, teak-covered living quarters.

River and terrace views greatly complement the rustic luxe look of the villas, with each equipped with a private pool, sun deck, sumptuous netted beds and marble bathrooms.

Food & Drink: The resort has two restaurants and a lobby cocktail bar, each blessed with open-air valley views. Ayung Terrace, the main dining hub, serves mainly Indonesian cuisine for lunch and dinner; breakfast has an Indonesian fruit station and an extensive a la carte menu—go for their decadent croque croissant layered with smoked leg ham, truffle mustard and emmenthal.

The casual, appropriately-named Riverside Cafe hugs the resort’s multi-tiered pool and has international menu selection, from moreish poke bowls to BBQ beef short ribs. Meals are both flavourful and fresh thanks to resort’s herb and vegetable gardens spread amongst the palm tree-rich grounds.

The thrice-weekly Chef’s Table dinner is a must for foodies: up to eight guests receive ‘front row’ access to an immersive, seven-course countertop feast of premium Indonesian cooking, including a 12-hour roasted whole duck and local favourite babi guling (spit-roasted suckling pig).

Spa & Wellness: There are two spa venues: one in the main building that includes saunas and and steam rooms, and the Sacred River Spa, a sybriartic three-villa retreat that’s considered one of Bali’s best. More than just ‘touch and go’ massage treatments, the Sacred River Spa programme is firmly rooted in deep spiritual healing and ancient rituals.

One-of-a-kind experiences like the Muladhara Chakra Ceremony—involving a singing bowl, intention-setting exercises, frankincense up in smoke and a deep tissue massage—are transporting and impactful, and should not be missed.

Things to do: The Four Seasons at Sayan hosts a bible-length list of activities and experiences—some of which are complimentary, such as morning yoga and lovely village cycling excursions. Wake up in the morning and go for white-water rafting (not as intense as you might think) along the jungle-lined Ayung River; cocoon yourself in a silk hammock and let former Buddhist nun Ibu Fera woo you to rest with Buddha tales in the unique Sacred Nap; or spend a half or full day touring the 500-person Sayan Village and take your turn cultivating rice in the immersive Day in the Life of a Balinese Farmer. It’s arguably the finest Bali luxury hotel for activities and excursions.

The Highs: The anticipatory and genuinely friendly service and culture-driven activity programs are truly among the world’s best.

The location, just a 10-minute drive to central Ubud, means some of the island’s best attractions are near your doorstep. The spa experience and dining quality is superb.

The Lows: With 20 years under its belt, the look isn’t as fresh and shiny as other newly opened luxury resorts, even with the recent extensive refurbishment.

Also, it’s not ‘completely’ secluded: a few bars, residences and attractions in the amphitheatre-like valley are visible from the common areas and some of the villas, and loud white-water rafters chugging along the riverbanks during the day might disturb one’s peace.

Best For: Classic travellers, honeymooners, foodies, authentic culture-seekers.

The Lowdown: The Six Senses brand’s newest resort was one of the 2018’s most anticipated luxury hotel openings. Based on Bali’s rugged, southernmost stretch, its Indian Ocean-facing cliffside location is marvellous, as are the sunrise and sunset views. Beyond the villas are ocean-view suites (some of which contain personal pools) primarily built with wedding guests in mind. The resort’s massive, tiered infinity pool along the cliff’s edge, seemingly blending into the oceanic horizon, is Instagram gold.

The Rooms: There are 28 Sky Suites and 69 one- and two-bedroom Cliff Pool Villas; the latter has a light nod to traditional Balinese homes (‘family’ temple, colourful Balinese door, etc.) but are mostly contemporary with a sea-inspired colour palette. Villas are staggered and stacked along the grounds, allowing every guest to enjoy unimpeded views from one’s spacious deck and private infinity pool...and indoor deep-soak bathtub.

The sleep quality is wonderful thanks to luxurious organic bedding from luxury brands Hanse and Beaumont & Brown. On great weather days in the villa, you’re better off skipping the indoor shower and enjoying the swanky open-air one instead.

Food & Drink: Much of the ingredients, such as herbs, mushrooms, sprouts and vegetables are sourced from a budding organic garden and mushroom farm on the premises, a nod to the Six Senses brand’s sustainability ethos.

Rocka hosts meals throughout the day, including an extensive breakfast buffet with tasty and healthy juices and smoothies. International dishes are on offer for lunch and dinner, but I’d recommend trying the local flavours off of their extensive ‘Nusantara’ (Indonesian archipelago) a la carte menu—the be gengol, a southern, spiced Balinese pork belly topped with shallots, is a must-try.

There’s also Crudo, which serves both Nikkei cuisine and BBQ seafood dinner feasts. Tucked in a corner near the main pool is the Cliff Bar, one of the best places on the resort to enjoy quality, locally-inspired cocktails.

Spa & Wellness: Whether you want to detox, improve sleep or lose weight, the Six Senses Spa has a thorough programme of treatments and multi-day wellness packages. There are 10 treatment rooms, which are accessed by walking over ‘floating’ stone squares atop a shallow pool of water. Complimentary morning yoga takes place in a dedicated yoga pavilion, which is across from a well-equipped fitness room.

Activities: The resort can arrange several activities, from local area excursions and hiking to helicopter rides and boat tours.

The most essential ‘to-do’ is a sunset visit to Uluwatu Temple, one of Bali’s most sacred sites based just 15 minutes from the property; guests take a nostalgic ride in an open-air 70s Volkswagen jeep and led by a local guide around the staggering cliffside temple grounds.

The Highs: Six Senses Uluwatu is spectacularly situated, based on a rugged cliff with views of the beach beneath and the vast ocean ahead, and is very close to Uluwatu Temple and the area’s top day clubs. The spa complex is beautifully done, and the cliff-hugging central pool is one of Bali’s most photogenic.

The Lows: The early growing pains that just-opened hotels occasionally have were apparent during my visit, with a villa aircon that didn’t work for half my stay and a few service blunders in different venues. Snugly-placed Cliff Pool Villas don't afford the level of privacy of other high-end Bali resorts.

Best For: Wedding groups, lovers of views and sunsets, Instagram travellers.