Givenchy names streetwear designer Matthew Williams as new creative director

The Chicago-born designer began his career art directing for Lady Gaga and Kanye West, and has collaborated with Virgil Abloh to release streetwear and mixtapes. There are comparisons to be drawn between Williams and the latter, as Virgil Abloh was the first streetwear designer to take the helm of a luxury house when he joined Louis Vuitton in 2018.

Like Abloh, Williams is a tastemaker with his finger firmly on the zeitgeist. Shortlisted for the 2016 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, his brand 1017 Alyx 9SM has garnered a loyal following among high flying minimalists and hypebeasts for a highly focused collection with a very personal point of view, spanning womenswear, menswear and accessories, as well as collaborations with renowned international sports and luxury lifestyle brands. The designer’s longstanding fascination with translating cultural undercurrents into high fashion informs the brand’s aesthetic, and his signature “rollercoaster” buckle has become a ‘those who know, know’ accessory among urban style aficionados.

The 34-year-old currently resides in Ferrara, Italy, where Alyx is headquartered and produced, however he will relocate to Paris before starting at Givenchy on July 16. He will be the seventh designer to take the helm at the French house since its founder left in 1995.

His time at Givenchy will no doubt mark a departure from the refined, aristocratic aesthetic Waight Keller promoted during her three-year tenure. Under Waight Keller, the first woman to lead Givenchy since it was established in 1952, Givenchy couture was brought back to the runway (her predecessor Tisci had opted for static presentations) and became a mainstay on the red carpet. Perhaps most significantly the label became a go-to designer for the Duchess of Sussex’s formal events, and Waight Keller was even chosen to design the her wedding dress.

There’s every chance that Williams’ Givenchy won’t be so suited to the former senior royal’s taste, however an aesthetic imbued with fresh, subcultural cool that appeals to millennial shoppers is no doubt desirable for a brand struggling with the aftermath of Covid-19 and the uncertain future of luxury fashion in general.

Sidney Toledano, Chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, is certainly positive about the change in direction: “I am very happy to see Matthew M. Williams join the LVMH Group. Since he took part in the LVMH Prize, we have had the pleasure of watching him develop into the great talent he is today. I believe his singular vision of modernity will be a great opportunity for Givenchy to write its new chapter with strength and success.”