“It’s not just about selling t-shirts” says Sofia Prantera, founder of cult brand Aries

You watched The White Lotus, right? But how closely? Close enough to have clocked Portia’s slouchy purple sweatshirt emblazoned with the slogan ‘No Problemo’? To those in the know, it was instantly recognisable as cult streetwear brand Aries. And the show’s costume department couldn’t have made a more authentic choice. The London label is beloved by Gen Z and millennials the world over; Little Simz, Emily Ratajkowski, Dua Lipa, Ella Emho and Mia Khalifa are fans.

‘No Problemo’ makes total sense once I meet Aries’ creative director, Sofia Prantera, who founded the label with graphic artist Fergadelic in 2009. We are days away from the unveiling of its first permanent store in Soho, but Prantera doesn’t seem at all concerned about getting the finishing touches over the line. ‘We haven’t got any of the furniture or the clothes in the space... But it’ll be okay,’ she says in a relaxed Italian lilt. Sure enough, the opening went ahead without a hitch, marked by a launch party with crowds that spilled out on to the pavements of Great Pulteney Street.

Despite reaching global success with its genderless clothing, and its collaborations with the likes of New Balance, Juicy Couture, Vans and Tommy Hilfiger, London youth culture remains the heart and soul of Aries. ‘I think I’ve lived in London longer than I lived in Italy,’ says Prantera, who was born in Rome before moving to the UK in the 1990s to attend Central Saint Martins. ‘I’ve seen such a change from then until now, in terms of the way youth culture has shifted here. There is less investment in it, into universities, cultural exchanges, which makes me worry... But at the same time, London is so vibrant, there is still so much possibility and a lot going on. We are hoping that the store becomes a destination within the Soho area to cultivate this,’ she continues. ‘Collaboration and working with others is such a big part of the Aries brand — it’s not just about selling T-shirts.’

The 4,000-sq-ft space spans two floors and was designed by Brinkworth and the Wilson Brothers, who are also responsible for dreaming up the Supreme store in West Hollywood. ‘A lot of the store is on tracks or wheels,’ says Prantera. ‘It was important that it’s customisable for all the different things we’re going to host, such as exhibitions and pop-ups.’ Parisian coffee shop Paperboy has set up shop there, with pop-ups from vintage reseller Jerks and the work of Aries’ long-time creative partner David Sims currently on display.

The first exhibition has just opened, showcasing the work of photographer David Ledoux and stylist Phoebe Arnold, who have captured a four-piece collection Aries produced with White Claw worn by skaters and surfers in Biarritz. ‘I love the lazy aesthetic of David’s images, they seem to exist in the past rather than the present,’ says Prantera. ‘It’s a really beautiful collaboration and hosting the first exhibition in our new London home… it feels like what we’ve been dreaming about for years is finally coming true.’