Paris in a twirl over Galliano

With all the fabulous creations twirling down the catwalk, only a philistine would have given Liz Hurley and her boyfriend Arun Nayer a second glance.

The couple were in the front row for John Galliano's triumphant collection for Christian Dior. Drawing inspiration from the flamenco dancers of Spain, he sent out frothy, floor-sweeping polka dot can-can skirts in velvet, satin and tulle. They were worn with white shirts tied under the breastbone, tightly laced bodices or brightly coloured lace bras.

As always, the models were barely recognisable under their heavy make-up, with British model Stella Tennant's trademark alabaster skin transformed by shiny layers of brown and gold.

Not a piece of clothing came down the catwalk that wasn't handpainted, beaded or embroidered to within an inch of its life, as Galliano tested the couture skills of his atelier to the limits. Fringed piano shawl dresses, velvet matador jackets and slinky column dresses made of patchworked sari fabric are sure to have Dior's wealthy clientele in a tizzy for autumn 2004.

Clearly in a romantic mood, Galliano also sent out ballet dancers in pale peach ballgowns whose wide skirts contrasted dramatically with the narrowness of their boned corset tops. And in a typically insouciant move, he tied a grey marl sweatshirt round their waists.

His clever blending of the modern with the traditional is a tactic which has seen Dior more than quadruple its sales since he took over the reins in 1996.