After the financial duress of the 1981 Windsor fire, the Queen now opens Buckingham Palace for two months a year. To this has been added the Queen's Gallery designed by John Simpson. It is the best small gallery in London. Indeed, with help from Leonardo, Michelangelo, Van Dyck, Vermeer and others, it must be the most exquisite concentration of art in Europe. To the west, parts of Kensington Palace are also open, including the "Diana's Dresses" exhibition. But that is all. Meanwhile, the district of St James's contains a royal and aristocratic enclave largely hidden from public view. The palaces, staterooms, courtyards and gardens are maintained at public expense. Yet they are closed.