Jacobs' cream cracker

It was the hottest show of the week - literally. But even the soaring temperatures inside the Marc Jacobs show did nothing to wilt the crowd's enthusiasm - for he is New York fashion week's darling.

He is London's darling, too. You might not countenance paying £1,000 for one of his deftly-cut pink satin evening dresses, but that does not mean Marc Jacobs has not touched your life. If you have ever shopped on the British high street, the chances are that one of the garments you bought was directly influenced by a Jacobs collection.

No other designer on the planet is so copied. Those slim green army jackets that every London female between 18 and 48 seems to own? A Marc classic.

Jacobs's last collection was generally regarded as tricky, with awkward acid colours and stiff trapeze-line Sixties shapes. But this was a delight: quirky, pretty and delicate, but above all, highly commercial.

Reverting to his signature pastels - moss green, sherbet lemon and blush pink - he sent out a highly refined version of the grunge look that first made him famous.

A-line skirts layered over frothy petticoats, shrunken wool cardigans and raw silk edges were grunge-like in spirit but also highly glamorous.

Knitwear was a strong feature, with crochet cardigans belted over
Trousers were either loose and floor-skimming with a thin turn-up, or wide and cropped to the ankle. The classic Jacobs Mary Jane shoe was reworked in cutaway filigree leather.

Strongest was the gossamer-light evening wear, made of pleated antique silk with lace insets.

Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen made a rare appearance on the catwalk, wearing one of the dresses in cream. It was good to see the Victoria's Secret model in more than just her underwear for a change.

Diaphanous dresses came with ruffled skirts, fluttering cap sleeves and cabbage rose corsages. It was a fine departure from the sleek, brief evening wear which has dominated the stores in recent seasons, and is sure to be embraced by women of a romantic bent.

Former models Stephanie Seymour and Helena Christensen and actresses Gina Gershon and Hilary Swank were in the front row.

Swank and Jacobs later hosted a benefit party for disadvantaged teenagers, where guests danced through the night.