Brit pack rules in NYC

New York is not just about Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren. Though the big-bucks big names dominate the catwalk schedule, it is also a place where canny designers can raise their profiles and boost their order books.

Matthew Williamson and Roland Mouret - two very different London names - took to the catwalk last night to fight for a slice of the international action and the all-important A-list clients.

Williamson is almost a seasoned New York veteran with his fourth showing - and it showed.

Known for his bohemian layers, bright colours and exotic embroideries, the Manchester-born favourite of Jade Jagger, Helena Christensen and Britney Spears served up his usual hippy glamour with a slightly more commercial twist.

Peacock feather prints and beadwork were toned down with wearable cord jeans and mini skirts that set out to please both his fans and his backers.

He also launched his own accessories collection that should prove a winner for the 32-year-old - as well as announcing the planned opening of a London flagship store in Bruton Street next spring. Not bad going for a designer who worked out of his tiny London flat not so very long ago.

Hoping to achieve similar success was New York newcomer Roland Mouret. The French-born designer's debut was impressive, drawing on past ideas that have won him high-profile fans including Nicole Kidman, Cate Blanchett and Catherine Zeta-Jones. Mouret, 42, also threw in

plenty of new twists and even moved a few of the fashion pack to tears.

Fine silk jersey and liquid silver lurex were artfully draped on slinky evening dresses no doubt perfect for many a red carpet moment, offset by his mannish tailoring and sexy cut-out swimwear.

Williamson and Mouret will be sadly missed at the London shows, which start tomorrow. But if leaving the capital can promise greater success internationally, you cannot help wishing them luck.