Fay Maschler reviews The Lockhart

What with Picture opening in Great Portland Street at about the same time as The Lockhart in Seymour Place — aka Portman Village in estate agent speak — Marylebone is obviously the new Dalston. Two couples whose home state is Texas have opened a restaurant to showcase food of the American Southwest. Chef is Andrew Justice, who was apparently a quarter-finalist in Masterchef: The Professionals 2010 and has worked for the contract caterers BaxterStorey.

Nothing about that glimpse into his CV makes me think that Justice is likely to have a profound understanding of a tradition that absorbs influences from Spanish colonial settlers, cowboys, Native Americans and Mexicans, and what we eat reinforces that suspicion. The “secret” Lockhart barbecue sauce is not one I will be hurrying to unravel. Its ability to be murky while bland is not enough to mask a slight fishiness about pieces of boneless chicken wings listed under the heading “Bites”.

Jalapeño cornbread rolls brought unbidden is a nice touch but their use as croutons in a Southwest Ceasar (sic) salad adds crumb rather than desirable crispness, and the lettuce assembly with no saltiness from anchovy or Worcestershire sauce is a sad starter for £9 — or £11 with the addition of smoked chicken, a favoured ingredient throughout the menu.

Crayfish has been substituted in Dunny’s (who is he?) lobster nachos which, defying their heading “To Share”, is chosen as a main course. You would need to be watching a nail-bitingly exciting football match to ignore their lack of zest or zing. “Rib-eye 21-day matured”, described as coming with “pepper-crusted field mushroom, matchstick fries, Sonoma red wine reduction, smoked chipotle bernaise (sic)” proves that writing an exciting dish is easier than cooking it, especially from the basis of unimpressive meat priced at £25. A side order of mac’n’cheese with smoked bacon is fine.

In the spacious countrified premises a lively cocktail bar winks from downstairs and mescal, tequila and bourbon have rightful prominence. A predominantly American wine list is also a source of interest. Waitresses in floaty dresses and hefty boots bring to mind The Clampett family from The Beverly Hillbillies.

22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NJ (020 3011 5400). Tues-Sun, noon-11.30pm (midnight Fri & Sat, 10.30pm Sun). A meal for two with wine, about £125 inc 12.5 per cent service.