Wine Box: Gutsy gents' reds

There was once an old-fashioned ruling that applied to most military and gentlemen's club dinners whereby conversations about religion, politics or sex were viewed as 'bad form'. What else did they talk about? Gardening, DIY, the village bring-and-buy... Not a chance.

I have a wealthy friend who spends much of his life gargling vintage port amid a haze of Cuban cigar smoke. He believes conversation at men's dinners is only ever about religion, politics and sex. 'They'd be pretty boring otherwise,' he says. But what meaty reds should these gentlemen drink between the bawdy gags and collapsing contentedly into an upright, studded leather chair? Maybe some of these.

Errazuriz Syrah Reserva 1998 (left, Oddbins, Tesco, madaboutwine.com, virginwine.com, £9.99). Very elegant and powerful red from Chile that would be a gutsy alternative to claret when the roast beef is drummed in. The fruit is very ripe, giving intense blackberry and blackcurrant flavours wrapped with an almost nutty richness. A real lip-smacker and a good talking point.

Ch?teauneuf-du-Pape 1997, Ch?teau de Beaucastel (Majestic, £21.99). Fine Rh?ne reds can form the backbone of any formal men's dinner, and this is, for me, the pick of the bunch. Absolutely lovely stuff, scented with lilac and leather, and tasting of plums and loganberries. Beaucastel is a meticulously made wine using far more Mourv?dre grape (30 per cent) than other reds in the region, giving added edge and sophistication. The entire harvest is bottled at the same time, so there's no bottle variation. Perfect stuff for loyal toasts and dirty jokes.

Ch?teau Gallais Bellevue Cru Bourgeois, M?doc 1998 (M&S, £6.99). OK, so there has to be the option of a claret somewhere, but why pay a fortune when there's very good stuff to be had for seven quid? This red doesn't pack the punch of equivalent New World reds but has the subtlety and restraint of decent claret. Nice black fruit and cherry flavours, too. Good pedigree, good wine, good with any roast meat.

Cathedral Cellars Pinotage 1997 (Safeway, £8.99). A splendid, complex, well-balanced red with an unusual mix of flavours, with strawberry mixing with brown sugar and tobacco. Few South African reds really turn me on, but this bright, bulging, ripe brew is more aggressive and interesting than most. The boys will find one glass rapidly follows another... and another.