Wine Box: Forgotten drinks

We are all so used to serving wine before, during and after meals that many age-old traditions have been lost. Gin and tonic, brandy and soda, whisky and ginger, or a drop of vermouth - all once popular before-eating tipples have been swept away by the tidal wave of good wines to flood our shores.

But is this switch such a good thing? Maybe we're missing out on some treats? Hold back the usual opening salvo of macho New World Chardonnays (you can drink these later) and explore some pre-dinner drinks you grandparents might have enjoyed.

Henriques and Henriques Madeira Monte Seco (Laithwaites, 0870 444 8383, £9.99). Forget rich, gum-bruising, after-dinner Madeira, this is a fragrant, delicate, extra-dry Madeira from the Camara de Lobos area of the island - a drink almost forgotten in the UK. It has a lovely fresh and cake-like flavour. Serve chilled with canap?s or just on its own. Fantastic stuff.

Ch?teau de Beaulon Pineau Blanc des Charentes Ten years old (Berkmann Wine Cellars, 020 7609 4711, around £15). This good Cognac producer also brews up one of the best Pineau des Charentes. This vin de liqueur is usually an artisan product and can lack consistency. But, at its best - like this one - it is pale gold, with a lovely blast of musky sweetness combined with lush young spirit. For those who think Pineau is a mix of Cognac and white wine, think again. It's actually Cognac mixed with unfermented grapes. The alcohol comes from the Cognac. Lipsmacking before any meal.

Somerset 5-Year-Old Cider Brandy (35cl, Sainsbury's, £12.49). Big, juicy calvados-style apple brandy that's drenched with fruit sweetness that overlays the warming spirit. An odd choice for a drink before dinner, maybe - but try it as a long drink with tonic water or soda and you'll be nicely surprised. (Tonic water is also a terrific mix with any decent Cognac - dilute about three to one, tonic to Cognac, for a really surprising and delicious early-evening drink.)

Fino Sherry, Luis Caballero (Waitrose, £4.89). Waitrose is one of the few supermarkets to take sherry seriously (its own brands are good as well). This is an example of how dry sherry should taste - bright, fresh, with a zippy acid tang. Perfect stuff for any pre-meal drink. If you've forgotten how good dry sherry can be, try this and you'll probably end up always keeping a bottle in the fridge. Cheaper than many a mediocre Chardonnay, too.