Wine Box: A port in every girl

If you reply, 'No, I don't know the Bishop of Norwich,' it's a fair certainty you will then hear a chorus of: 'Well, he didn't pass the port either.' It's a clubland-and-old-codgers' tradition that port should be passed to the left and, once poured, should be kept moving. If the decanter, in error, gets stuck in front of you, be prepared for this gentle verbal haranguing.

Sadly, much of the mystique of drinking fortified wines after a meal is entangled with such traditions. Such customs, in my view, can be snobby and elitist. The good news for all wine lovers is that decent port, at last, is being drunk as a 'fashion statement', well away from these outdated public-school rituals. White port and tonic is a very acceptable pre-meal drink - and is far less of a knockout than a heavy-handed gin and tonic.

Likewise, many port makers are releasing more bottles which are ready to drink. Great vintage port remains the most warming and rich in style, but it is expensive and you have to wait for it. 'Accessibility' to all drinkers, particularly women, is a high priority for most port houses and the ranges now available reflect this. Try these and see if you agree:

Taylor's 10 Year Old Tawny (Sainsbury's, Unwins, Majestic, Safeway, £16.49). Tawny still only represents about three per cent of the port we drink in the UK, which is odd because a well-aged brew like this one is rich, complex, mellow and has amazing intensity. There are other much cheaper fine Tawnys, like the Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old I mentioned last week (Waitrose, £13.95), but this one has a mass of dried fruit flavours and a nice nutty softness.

Warre's Warrior Special Reserve Port (Asda, Co-op, Oddbins, Sainsbury's, Safeway, Somerfield, Tesco, Thresher, Unwins, Victoria Wine, Waitrose, £7.99). A good, rich staple drinking port from the oldest of the British port houses. If you expect port to give you a fruity whack in the mouth followed by a fiery glow in your tummy, this stuff does the trick.

Casal dos Jordoes Vintage Character Port (Vintageroots.co.uk, £11.50). Classic, warm, spicy, brambly, full-bodied port from the only fully certified organic estate in Portugal. Very smooth and rounded for the price. A bronze medal winner at the International Wine Challenge 2000.