Tackling the Tabernacle

Tabernacle Street was, until a decade ago, an alleyway of derelict warehouses, and is now a gentrified groove of designer loft apartments linking the prosperous Square Mile of the City to newly urbane Shoreditch.

Despite the somewhat tardy development of the neighbourhood's infrastructure - somewhere to buy a bag of nails or a pint of milk would be nice - Shoreditch has been home to the grunge bar since the early Nineties.

Grungees are devotees of the archetypal Shoreditch bar: for the most part they're young, shabbily (but expensively) dressed, sport daft (trendy) haircuts, have seemingly endless credit (debt) lines, and drink in places like the new Tabernacle Bar & Grill - the latest in a long list of openings round these parts.

Few bars I've ever encountered offer such a large space but with so little seating. There is just a smattering of tables and chairs, which look like they were acquired at a B&Q holiday sale, and a few island, high-level perching points suggest the owners are trying to cram the crowds in of an evening in 'standing room only' fashion.

The dark, stark, cold decor of the room, along with the unwise use of pebble-dashed panels, add up to the design equivalent of the stereotypical lesbian - making a statement by insisting cosmetics are not part of the make-up.

The bland theme continues through to the drinks, with San Miguel, Kronenbourg and Beck's on tap. Bottled beers offer a little more to shout about with the inclusion of Budwar, Paulaner (a German Pilsnerstyle beer) and Birra Moretti, an Italian, golden-coloured lager with a delicate malty flavour.

On the cocktail front the list is, as is often the case with new bar openings, devoid of information and explanation. It was only when our bartender started making a Vanillon, loosely described as Ketel One Citroen (which is a vodka, by the way) with lemon juice, gomme and vanilla sugar, that I noticed he was also using egg white in the ingredients.

Hands up all those of you who are familiar with Kirschwasser, Punt e Mes, or Licor 43? No, thought not, and it smacks of neglect not to explain these to the customer. (Incidentally, they are respectively: cherry liqueur, vermouth, and a Spanish citrus-and-vanilla flavoured liqueur). Whether the drinks are served long or short is not indicated.

A predominantly Italian wine list includes some good finds, but they're adventurously priced with little of interest below the £20 mark. Still, you have to remember that this place is within bond-throwing distance of the trading floors of the City, so the list is clearly designed to appeal to those guys rather than the value-conscious Shoreditch folk.

The bar menu consists of small dishes from the adjacent, smartly napiered restaurant and includes the likes of twice-cooked pork belly with mascarpone cheese and herb lentils (£11), or a salt beef sandwich with sabayon and sourdough bread. Smaller 'picking' dishes are suitable for sharing.