Renaissance at The Gun

The recently opened Docklands gastropub The Gun takes its name from the cannon fired to celebrate the opening of the West India Import Docks.

The early 19th century Grade II-listed building allegedly afforded Lord Nelson and his mistress Lady Hamilton a secret rendezvous after their return from Naples in the period just before Lord Hamilton's death in 1803.

Conscious of the fact that England expected every man to do his duty, the admiral apparently made good use of the secluded staircase leading to a secret room.

In restoring the pub, closed for several years following a fire, the new owners, Tom and Ed Martin, have found inspiration in both the military and amatory history.

Paintings of dramatic battles adorn the walls of the dining room and in the private room a mural depicting the Battle of Trafalgar shows Emma Hamilton grieving over her lover's absence at sea.

Behind the main bar, which leads seamlessly into the dining area, there are two snugs known as the Red Room and Gun Room and a heated, sheltered (from the rain) terrace which looks across the river to the sad sight of the Millennium Dome.

Local residents must surely appreciate the renaissance of The Gun, but it is also worth a journey - if you can find your way. Apparently a rickshaw can be sent to Canary Wharf to ferry customers to Coldharbour.

Chef is Scott Wade, who has worked for Marco Pierre White at Mirabelle and Drones. His menu is staunchly British with a few foreign raids and excursions, and he is currently making good use of game birds.

The printed list is embellished with dishes of the day from which one of us chose red mullet soup. It was well frothed, as is the fashion these days, but lukewarm. Maybe that was deliberate, but it didn't work with the accompaniments of croutons and rouille. Mussel-and-saffron soup, with the saffron visible to the tastebuds and eye, was much hotter and better.

I like seeing an omelette on a menu. It points to a chef who genuinely likes to cook. The omelette at The Gun, studded with chopped black truffle and garnished with slices of the same, had been rolled out of the pan plump and pale, just as it should be. In the main course, the dish of the day of partridge and teal (more teal than partridge) came with excellent Savoy cabbage.