Quality custom at Pinchito

You can get the staff: Pinchito is manned by a bunch of enthusiastic, attractive young people who not only know their stuff (Tobias, co-owner and bar dude is a true star) but are also genuinely keen to make sure you're happy. You can get the location: it doesn't get more groovy than this boite just off Old Street.

And you can get the food. The 'diffusion line' of the rave-reviewed Brighton original, Pinchito's offerings mirror its big bro's quality in a simple, pared-down format of pintxos, or Basque-style tapas. OK, this is no San Sebastian but the food is fresh, the ham is acorny and addictive, the croquetas are cheesy, silky and moreish, the lomo and chorizo are of unimpeachable provenance, and the cheeses - Idiazabal and, of course, manchego - slip down perfectly with some almondy amontillado. Bread comes with a spread of pulped, ripe tomatoes. Only a tortilla with mango and chorizo (odd idea, lumpily executed) and a sweaty stew of chickpeas and squid failed to convince.

But you can't get the quality of custom. The night we visited, the funky, slightly industrial space was rammed with screeching binge drinkers from nearby offices. Did they appreciate the sublime nuttiness of the Jabugo ham? Somehow I doubt it.

Tapas for two with wine, water and service costs £30 to £60 (depending on greed). 32 Featherstone Street EC1. Tel: 020 7490 0121. Tube: Old Street

Pinchito
Featherstone Street, London, EC1Y 8QX