Orchard - restaurant review

Admittedly Orchard is a new player in Holborn but it’s the first restaurant I’ve ever visited that was entirely empty an hour before closing time. The waitress seemed surprised that we wanted to enter — for a second I thought we would be turned away, like tourists at the idly staffed Acropolis. It may close at 8pm but plainly this is a breakfast, lunch and afternoon-snack kind of place for people working in the area — confirmed by its not being open on Saturday.

The whitewashed brick walls and natural colours say country kitchen or farm shop café. It calls itself a “Vegetarian Kitchen and Grocer”. My fashion writer friend didn’t appreciate the rustic tables that complete Orchard’s aesthetic, snagging her tights on them as she sat down. Not that she could be vocal about it, though — our waitress was lurking awkwardly a few yards away, whispering to her colleague in a manner you really can’t get away with in an empty room.

Uncovered tables and cheap-looking napkins didn’t inspire confidence either. A more conspiratorial mind than mine might speculate that Orchard — whose more formal venture, Vanilla Black, has been a big hit in Chancery Lane — was playing down the setting to build up to the great surprise: the food.

Pleasantly, the menu delivered more than it promised. The trio of “heritage” salads sounded naff but worked well — courgettes and cucumbers were pleasingly acidic and the purple potatoes not overdone. (“Purple is the colour of A/W 2012, so bang on trend,” my companion tells me.)

The red cabbage and grape dish was overly creamy. The “Homemade Sarnies” — goat’s cheese cheddar, and watercress on smoked bread — hit the spot, though, and were soft, with super-crunchy crusts.

The butter was fashioned into charming flower shapes and pleasingly salty.

The seasonal fruit stew was full of flavour, the cinnamon cream on top a nice touch. The Guinea chocolate bourbon with iced condensed milk showed they were trying but it could have worked just as well without the Earl Grey tea.

Arrive near to closing time at your peril, but overall Orchard is a good option for Holborn workers.

11 Sicilian Avenue, WC1 (020 7831 2715). Open Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm. Meal for two, around £30 without wine