Feeling warm in this House

Tim Haigh, formerly the sous chef at Brixton's Atlantic 66, is working in another open kitchen now, this time with a team of four to help him serve about 50 covers in the upstairs restaurant of Blake House. The pub has a spare, architectural, yet warm, feel.

Haigh's cooking is not warm, though - it's hot. Expect French and Italian technique with thoroughly seasonal British ingredients. The waitress brought an amuse bouche of 'fiss and ships' - two whitebait and two chips - with a grin. Cute.

I started with ravioli of confit duck with a lavender consommé. The large ravioli were juicy but not quite supple enough, the consommé lightly flavoured with lavender that added a delicateness to the duck's forthright flavour. Brother Ben, who is a harsh critic, had a scallop tortellini. 'It's not quite right,' he said, then dipped it in the saffron sauce. 'Oh, sorry, yes it is.'

The only complaint I could muster for my main, a mackerel dish, was that it was too small - then I remembered it was a starter. It came with horseradish, beetroot and fennel. The fish's rich oiliness was put to work. It came cooked to a rare tenderness and was topped with perfect crunchy skin. When Ben's grilled Charolais fillet arrived things went from good to hysterical. 'It has so much flavour. Look at the beautiful pinkness. Perfect, the best I've ever had in my life.' The watercress in the creamy mash spiced it slightly and the red wine jus had a good, concentrated flavour.

We shared an orange panna cotta that had a bubbly, almost frothy texture. It was a brave decision to use more milk and less cream and I was thankful because I'd had a heavy lunch that day. I was mortified to have to eat lightly off this wonderful menu, which featured such delights as seared sea bream and truffled lasagne. Service was impeccable and informal, and the staff knew many customers' names - a great touch. The menu is priced in a ridiculously honest way, from a chateaubriand for two with oodles of lovely trimmings at £54, to a Jerusalem artichoke soup for £4.

This chef, formerly of Chez Bruce and Thyme, is only 22. He'll go far.

16 Grove Lane, SE5 (020-7708 4422)

Dinner for two with wine, £80