Backstage beauty: must have make-up at London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week is coming to a close and in a few months' time, your beauty regimen will feel the effects. Wave goodbye to your mascara (there's a lash backlash going on in fashion) because, come autumn, you'll be sporting a cleaner, simpler eye that lets the shadow do the talking. Call it the recession, but beauty has a new, pared-down look; beachy braids and soft summer flushes will be out, and a cleaner, minimalist beauty will be in, in, in.

THE NEW NINETIES HAIR
Where: Pringle, Marios Schwab
How to get it: The Calvin Klein ads of the Nineties were referenced again and again this week. In hair, that means a touch of a young Kate Moss's two-day-old bedhead — with a healthier, more glossy feel. At Pringle, session stylist Paul Hanlon created a flat centre parting, wound models' hair into loose buns, then let the buns free, to create a soft wave. A quick spritz of the Tigi Catwalk Weightless Shine Spray added a luxurious shine that pulled it back into the future. In up-dos, Adam Reed's fishtail braid, created by using Babyliss Pro and a slick of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour cream on the tail, got my vote for "chicest of the week".
Instant update: Bandanas are the new bows. At House of Holland, session stylist Shay Dempsey used Sebastian Professional Blow Dry Spray to create high, bouncy ponytails, then tied bandanas around the base for a less cutesy finish.

THE SUPERNUDE SKIN
Where: Antonio Berardi, Matthew Williamson
How to get it: If past winters have seen a return to powdered matte complexions, next season's buzzwords — "dewy" and "supernude" — will have anyone without the clear complexion of a teenage model groaning in trepidation. However, the key is to use tricks of the light. At Berardi, make-up artist Gucci Westman played with "different variations on shine" by applying Revlon's Super Lustrous Lipgloss in Shine City to models'
eyelids, while at Matthew Williamson, James Kaliardos created the requisite glow with L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets High Definition Smoothing Foundation, followed by highlighter on the inner corner of eyes and cheekbones.
Instant update: Next winter, perfect skin is all in the preparation. Shu Uemura's forthcoming Stage Performer Instant glow primer and Instant Line Plumper, trialled at the PPQ show, are the hot ticket for a fresher, cleaner complexion.

THE VELVET LIP
Where: Mary Katranzou
How to do it: Forget gloopy, glossy lips — real, grown-up lipstick is making a comeback. At Mary Katranzou, make-up artist Val Garland created the lip of the week. Using MAC Cherry Pencil, she filled in both lips before adding a coat of Crimson Lipmix. As a final touch, she pressed Red Pigment powder onto just the bottom lip for an effect that was pure velvet. If you make only one change to your make-up routine next season, let this be it.
Instant update: Remember the days of dabbing concealer on your lips? The old Nineties trick was back at Mark Fast, PPQ and Henry Holland. Pat on lip balm first for this season's new take on the nude lip.

THE ALMOND EYE
Where: Richard Nicoll, Louise Goldin
How to do it: If make-up artists are to be believed, our love affair with all things lash is about to come to an abrupt end. Next autumn, it's out with the mascara and in with grungy eyes ringed in smudgy black kohl (seen at Louise Goldin). Alternatively, make-up artist Lucia Pieroni's "softly sculpted almond-shaped eye", defined with MAC's Copperplate shadow, provided a cleaner take on the new glamour at Jonathan Saunders. Taupes, greys and fawn shades should line the eyes and socket as eyelids — not lashes — become next season's focus.
Instant update: Sparkle sceptics beware — MAC's Reflect Glitter in Gold was dusted over models' eyelids and into the temples at Roksanda Ilincic for the all-new party season look. Follow with a hint of Vaseline just beneath the lower lash line and even the dullest of eyes will look fresh and alert.

THE BODY FINISH
Where: Louise Goldin
How to do it: The time when tanning was reserved for summer is long gone. At Louise Goldin, glow guru Nichola Joss created the new, "skin-finishing" winter tan using St Tropez Wash Off Body Glow Lotion. "It's all about evening-out skin rather than adding colour for winter," she said. Diluting the tan with body lotion, she misted it over models' bodies in her pop-up booth, then "gilted" the contours of the shoulder bone, down the sides of the neck and the lower arm bone. This St Tropez golden miracle product will be the product to have come winter party season.
Instant update: The nails-as-the-new-accessories trend continues. The jade greens of AW09 will be succeeded with minks (Pringle), smokey grey (Marios Schwab) and nail technician Sophy Robson's "mannequin manicure effect" at Vivienne Westwood.