Ford's goodbye to Gucci

There wasn't a dry eye in the house - except for Tom Ford's. Bowing out last night after 10 years at the helm of Gucci, whatever emotion Ford may have been feeling was hidden beneath a veneer of studied composure. But with $250 million of Gucci stock options under your belt, there probably isn't much cause for tears.

It was certainly smiles all round for the shareholders, because Ford didn't disappoint with his final collection for the house. Saving the best till last, he sent out an almost flawless display of Gucci fantasy. From the cinch-waisted leather jackets to the pencil-thin satin skirts, this was classic Gucci - darkly sexy and seductive. Every department store in the world has upped its orders in anticipation of extra-high consumer demand next season, for the lastever Tom Ford for Gucci range is sure to be a collector's item.

If you are a London girl, it's the raspberry pink clutch with interlocking purple velvet G's that you'll be clamouring for next autumn. If you are a Hollywood actress, it's more likely to be the raspberry pink column dress. For it was with the eveningwear that Ford really excelled, showing slim sequinned slivers in midnight blue, woven-ribbon fishtails in lime green and crystal-studded ballgowns in palest peach. Fringing was dominant - another classic Gucci trend, and one sure to be much in evidence on Sunday evening.

Quintessential Gucci girl Georgina Greville closed the show in a 2004 remix of the classic white peephole jersey dress she first wore in 1996.

In fashion circles, Ford's stepping down is being treated like a tragedy. For Gucci Group, it may well be. No other designer could epitomise the brand like Ford: with his movie-star looks and celebrity friends, he was Gucci from top to toe. Whether the label will maintain the same success in the future is the question Gucci Group and parent PPR (Printemps Pinault Redoute) must address.

Although there have been rumours linking Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Narciso Rodriguez with the job, no successor has been announced. Instead, it is likely Gucci will be designed by a team headed by Stefano Pilati, Ford's second-in-command at Yves Saint Laurent. Ford shows his last collection for Saint Laurent in Paris on 7 March. An announcement about his successor at both labels is expected after this date.