Why St Tropez is the tops

St Tropez prides itself on

It might be Michael Jackson dodging the rush-hour traffic or Geri Halliwell dropping in on her pal George Michael - St-Tropez still attracts some of the world's most flamboyant personalities, who conspicuously-hide away in luxury estates along the coast.

Of course, celebrities and royalty can't resist making the odd public appearance - such as Prince Andrew, spotted strolling along the beach with a bikini-clad companion after watching the World Cup final at the home of a millionaire friend.

The Duke of York is keeping up a tradition that dates from the 1950s, when a young and glamorous Brigitte Bardot found her spiritual home here during the filming of And God Created Woman, directed by Roger Vadim. A somewhat less youthful Bardot still keeps a St-Tropez home, where she leads the French fight for animal rights.

During the 1950s this pastel-coloured town attracted artists and intellectuals such as Picasso, Franćoise Sagan and Jacques Prèvert, and by the 1960s it had become a major magnet for Mediterranean playboys.

Though rumoured at times to have lost some of its lustre, St-Tropez retains an irresistible allure. The facade it presents is of an unspoiled Mediterranean fishing village - seething in summer, sleepy in winter - but on the showoff yachts and behind closed doors, the champagne never stops flowing.

Mick Jagger, Michael Jackson, Linda Evangelista and the France and Manchester United goalkeeper Fabien Barthez are among those who own property here, and countless others have passed through.

Nicole Kidman was spotted during the filming of Moulin Rouge, and Princess Diana made an appearance shortly before her fateful accident, holding a private party in a disco.

For the casual visitor, a day in St-Tropez begins in the Vieux Port, where lively cafès and restaurants offer a view of eye-popping yachts. Behind the port, the old town has retained much of its character - the streets are narrow and crooked, and the daily fish market really does feature the night's catch.

You might spot Bardot in the Place des Lices where, in the Provenćal tradition, men gather for a pensive game of pètanque and a glass of pastis, and locals buy their fresh fruit and vegetables.

Star spotters and sun worshippers head for the beaches - there are about 40 to choose from, some of them surprisingly wild and isolated.

Those in the celebrity loop prefer Club 55 (a beach and a restaurant) or Tahiti ( likewise), both in the Baie de Pampelonne, long the pick of the St-Tropez elite. Closer to town are the beaches La Bouillabaisse, Les Graniers and Les Salins, but it takes a brave soul to don a thong and join the throngs in peak season.

As the sun goes down in its blaze of colour, there is no shortage of places to continue soaking up the scene, from the oh-so-extravagant La Voile Rouge to the ultra-selective VIP Room.

Hòtel Byblos, a collection of plush chalets, has been enjoying renewed popularity among the jet set - a sign of this is star chef Alain Ducasse's decision to open a branch of his fusion bistro Spoon Food and Wine here. Byblos also houses the longestablished nightclub Les Caves du Roy, a favourite of leathery rocker Johnny Hallyday, who is also a resident of St-Tropez.

"St-Trop" is furthermore a luxury shopper's paradise. Rue Sibille and Rue Clemenceau are lined with designer boutiques, while Claire l'Insolite offers a selection of prÍt?-porter designs and the requisite bikinis - although half of one will be sufficient, as St-Tropez is the place that launched topless sunbathing in France.

The St Tropez address book