Whistle down Canada's new resorts

Some people will be surprised to hear that Canadian skiing has more to it than just Whistler or Banff. Such is their popularity that many of the smaller and more charming resorts have found it difficult to get noticed.

But now the mood and appetite of British skiers is more adventurous we are discovering that the little guys have grown up into fairly big guys with great personalities and are well worth a visit, whether individually or on a road trip, as I did, taking in two or more resorts in a week or - better still - ten days.

Here's a glance at three such resorts in and around the Okanagan region of British Columbia, with no more than a rewardingly scenic three-hour drive between them.

One of the great thrills about Sun Peaks Resort is the opportunity to ski with former Olympic champion Nancy Greene.

Recently voted Canada's female athlete of the century, Nancy and husband Al Raine are now ambassadors for this stunning international ski area, which they helped to develop from a locals' ski hill.

I probably skied the fastest I have ever skied while sucked into Nancy's vapour trail earlier this season, as we shot down wideopen cruiser after wide-open cruiser. Not only does Nancy inspire the resort's guests to greater things with her skiing prowess, but not a single ripple could be found on the immaculately groomed giant rolling pistes, giving added confidence that our ski edges would hold true at faster speeds.

Exhilarated and exhausted in equal measure, we retreated for a well-earned lunch in Macker's bar and grill at the base of the mountain in part of Nancy's hotel, the Cahilty Lodge. One of our group was clearly feeling a bit too pleased with himself having, as he imagined it, 'kept pace with the great Nancy Greene all morning', and pluckily asked out loud: 'Nancy, at our fastest, how fast do you think we were skiing?'

With a playful, emasculating twinkle in her eye, the grande dame of Canadian skiing replied: 'Put it this way Nick, when you were absolutely flat out - I was at about 25 per cent!'

We continued on perfect 'groomers' all day. Nancy and Al would frequently point up at some of their favourite runs cut through the trees, littered with painful-looking moguls from top to bottom. As we raced about getting a good feel for the vast scope of on and off-piste terrain, including the small Snow Cat skiing area on neighbouring Mount Morrisey, I was quietly thinking to myself: 'This is the way I like to ski bumps - admire them and ski on by at great speed!'

A good range of dining and shopping can be found in the resort centre and its useful Internet cafe, but I have to single out the rare cuisine we enjoyed at Sun Peaks - bear.

We couldn't resist when a charismatic local hunter - who very occasionally, and legitimately, shoots bears for food in the backcountry near his log cabin - asked if we had tried it.

He had some sausages in the freezer left over from his last 800lb kill, and the gamey black bear meat, mixed with pork and herbs into a bratwurststyle sausage, was so good we asked for more.

The Silver Star resort officials were appalled when we apologised for arriving late due to the unexpected bear barbecue in Sun Peaks, but soon learned to laugh with us.

This quaint mountain village boasts a charming, wide pedestrianised centre, flanked by woodclad townhouses in the style of a former Victorian mining town, all curiously painted in a range of bright colours.

It looks even more Disneyesque at night, when the outlines of the buildings are illuminated by fairy lights.

But carry this light-hearted image with you to the steeps above and you could be in for quite a shock if you find yourself in the Putnam Creek area, where a myriad of narrow runs cascade off a high traverse like a series of elevator shafts.

Expert skiers and snowboarders flock here after fresh snow falls and also to the Valhalla area, which requires just enough of a climb for you to consider carefully whether you really want to take on its precipitous challenges.

These daredevil areas do not characterise the entire skiing terrain. The Vance Creek area is decorated with rewarding cruisers for intermediates and gentle descents, with names like Aunt Gladys, are strategically dotted across the mountain, presenting easier options.

Silver Star has comfortable, but limited, accommodation and a small choice of bars, restaurants and shops, but is set for many millions of dollars worth of expansion-and upgrade as it has just been bought by its Okanagan neighbour, Big White, which has promised huge investment.

Families, especially with young children, are undoubtedly better catered for at this bigger and cleverly designed resort. Big White has a large range of hotels and self-catering condominiums, which are all conveniently ski-in, ski-out.

The award-winning children's daycare centre, for those aged 18 months to six years, is so good that parents often encounter tears when they turn up to claim back their offspring.

Below the main village, at the base of the gondola, there is also an excellent children's park with snow tubing, ice-skating and snow karting which proves popular with adults, too.

A vast timber lodge provides snacks and drinks in a comfortable communal lounge for those taking a break from the outdoor activities and at night remains open as it also houses a fine quality restaurant.

A T-bar ski lift at the top of the mountain accesses the radical descents in The Cliff area of the resort, but the main body of the ski terrain at Big White is long intermediate cruising runs on wide, well-groomed pistes.

GLADE skiing is something of a Big White speciality, and there are gentle wellspaced tree runs as well as tightly-packed steep tree runs which challenge the nimblest of skiers.

When the weather is bad, head for the Black Forest chairlift which accesses a huge wind-protected section of the mountain with charming ski trails weaving through giant trees which seem to provide a canopy over the permanently tranquil setting.

Silver Star and Big White now offer a joint lift pass and, as well as a three-hour bus link, the resorts also own a helicopter, which for less than £45 per person, will provide you with a scenic transfer between the two.

Getting there

For more details or to make direct reservations visit www.sunpeaksresort.com, www.bigwhite.com or for British tour operator packages to all resorts call Visit Canada on 0906 871 5000 or visit www.HelloBC.com