U2 can stay at Dublin's finest

There's more to Dublin hotel

FACTFILE: THE CLARENCE

Opened: June 1996.

Room rate: Double E285, 1-bed suite E590, penthouse E2,000.

Reputation. Its U2 band-member owners assured it pilgrimage rating. The travel mags deem it the most talked-about hotel in Dublin, delivering "contemporary sophistication" without alienating either corporate guests or denim-clad weekenders. Rick Stein rates the chef, ex-Square Antony Ely, whose cooking, says Stein, is "real three-star stuff". That's Michelin - the hotel itself has five.

Is it deserved? Since the hail of publicity in which The Clarence opened, the hotel has enjoyed cult status, not least for its modern interior (the building is arts and crafts) by Keith Hobbs (also instrumental in the concept behind London's Metropolitan hotel) but also by virtue of Bono and The Edge's involvement.

No review has been complete without the rock-star owners' names included, as if the public areas are some kind of rock'n'rollers' front room. The truth is, if you are any more likely to bump into a star here than at say, The Connaught, it is because The Clarence is so small - only 50 rooms and one very small lift.

But a hotel cannot live by autograph opportunities alone. Five years after my first visit, the design - bright mustards, reds and purples, modern art, solid oak - still looks fresh. No off-putting scuff marks, stained carpet or hideously dated statements. The beds are heavenly. Really goodquality linen. Some rooms are small, but the arrangement is so good you don't notice.

The Library - all lofty, leaded windows, arts and crafts panelling, sinkinto chocolate leather sofas - is still an inviting place to read the papers or order drinks. I'm still not convinced by the rowdy, open-to-all Octagon Bar - so named for its awkward shape, which means that wherever you sit you're looking at a sea of backs whose owners are propping up the bar. The Kitchen, the hotel's nightclub, has, sensibly, closed and a decision on what to do with the space is about to be made. These days, a city-centre hotel only needs a restaurant if it's a destination in its own right (like Nobu).

The Tea Room restaurant serves proper breakfast - no buffet stuff - and good orange juice, but the place comes into its cacophonous own on Saturday night, when half the city seems to pile in for Wicklow lamb (three cuts on one plate), roast halibut with gnocchi, or mixed grill of John Dory, monkfish and scallops with truffle potato purÈe. Rick Stein is absolutely right about the cooking.

Don't miss. A Prada facial in the new treatment room. At last, matching face and feet.

Room at the top. The penthouse is always booked, so go for the Garden Terrace suite (E620) instead. Your private rooftop terrace has great views and space to entertain.

Worth the money? This is not a cheap place to stay - you'll only get change from £200 a night in the smallest double, breakfast is extra (though ask about inclusive packages) and dinner will add another £60 or so for two. House wine is around £15 a bottle but you can easily find yourself glugging something costing double that, and a glass of champagne is £8.40. It's got style, though.

Reservations: 00 353 1 407 0800