Turkish delights in Marmaris

A small fishing village 20 years ago, Marmaris is now a huge cosmopolitan resort of more than 3,000 hotels and apartments, 9,000 bars and restaurants.

Pine-clad mountains sweep down to the town, which centres on a photogenic harbour tinkling with 6,000 yachts. Whitewashed hotels and tacky souvenir shops crowd the waterfront, while the beach, packed with Brits, Belgians and Germans on sun loungers, is the main attraction.

"I went to Kusadasi eight years ago, but Marmaris is much better," says Bernadette Mahedy, 30, from Ealing, holidaying with friend Catherine Masters, 24. The exchange rate is more favourable than ever for Brits: 2.4 million lira to the pound. Yvonne Robison, 58, and Colin Davey, 51, from Wales say, "The food's good value - we had steak, chips and salad last night for a fiver. We will definitely come back."

On the beach...

Sun loungers and a palm-dotted promenade line a traffic-ridden road. Dark-yellow sands curve south for 11km, along a jagged coastline full of high-rise hotels, bars and shops, to less crowded Icmeler: smart restaurants, small villas and hotels. Ten-minute, 30p shared dolmus ride from Tansas shopping centre. Taxi boat, £2, from the harbour passes craggy coast, tall peaks and uninhabited islets. Sun loungers: Marmaris £1.20, Icmeler 60p.

What they're reading...

John Grisham, Daily Star.

Beach bars...

The Cousins (1km south of the harbour); wicker terrace chairs; young crowd listens to Kylie and Sisqo. Chicken kebab with chips, veg, rice and Diet Coke, £5.80. Andy's: Efes Pilsen, 80p, G&T, £1 - karaoke starts after dark. Treeana: big bar with dark-wood tables and panelled walls; techno-dance for 20s crowd, terrace overlooks the boats. Good for families early evening: Beach Club: vodka and Coke, £2.50, egg and chips, £2. Kontes in Icmeler: live Turkish band, belly dancer and folk dancers Wed evenings, skewered fish of the day, jacket potato, veg and rice, £5.50.

Clubs 2002...

Most are on Haci Mustafa Sokak, back from the main square. Tim Newman, 21, from Basildon, Natalie Causer, 24, and Jenna Greasley, 21, from Southend, like Daisy, "an open-roof club for dance, pop and Turkish music. All types, from drag queens to tourists and locals - it's mad." Greenhouse: techno-den for the young. Escape: on Barbaros Caddesi, UK chart music, pool table, view of boats.

Where to go if you're...

Bored with the beach: Four hours by coach is Pamukkale - white calcium shelves, stalactites and thermal pools, day trip £16. (Local Tourism Travel Agency 0090 252 4552257.)
Suffering: Eczane (a chemist) - look for the white sign/green cross.
Falling in love: Canal Bazaar, Icmeler. Canal runs inland from beach, wooden bridges, lined with olive and eucalyptus trees, pink and white blooms, cosy restaurants and bars.