Top way to shop in Morocco

Shopping in Marrakech used to mean the H-factor - hustlers, haggling, hassle, hard-sell traders and interminable hot mint tea.

Now there's a way to avoid medina rage. London-based interior design company Le Souk has introduced escorted shopping trips with designer Ali Zbari. The advantages of shopping with a Moroccan expert are legion. The H-factor is non-existent. You save time by going directly to the best craftsmen and there's no pressure to buy. If you see something that takes your fancy, Ali can negotiate on your behalf.

Cool morning ceramics

After the souk's blur of colour, noise, heat and smells it was bliss to slip into Scenes de Lin (00 212 4 443 6108), a sophisticated airconditioned interior-design shop in rue de la Libert?, in the new town district of Gueliz. Pale lilacs, mint green and baby blue prevail. Small, pink lead-free bowls, £3.40, looked like perfect breakfast companions, exquisite white silk cushions with traditional Fes embroidery, £17.50. And you don't need the excuse of a sauna to buy the luxurious fringed cotton hammam towels at £15.50.

Moving on to glassware

A short but hot-and-dusty stroll brought us to eclectic store L'Orientaliste (00 212 4 443 4074), also on rue de la Libert?. Shelves were crammed with glass and filigree metal containers, £8.75, vintage glass soda siphons, £61, tasselled glass and metal perfume bottles, some filled with heady patchouli or rose de l'Atlas, £24, plus the inevitable tea glasses.

Stop for coffee and kilims

Ali led us through the medina's memory-bending warren of narrow alleyways, shops, bakeries, tanneries and bath-houses to Le Petit Palais, an air-conditioned kilim emporium. En route we passed the souk's myriad rug-sellers. Most rugs stink (like Afghan coats) and the traditional bright orange and burgundy colours look garish back home. We sipped coffee while finely woven silk rugs in pale pink and subtle tan were laid at our feet for inspection. Carpets cost £180 (4ft x 3ft) or £500 (9ft x 6ft), and there was no hassle about leaving without buying.

Hot pots

After lunch at Ryad Tamsna (see Inspiration), Ali drove us to Mohammed Nait's open-air potyard outside the city to clamber over terracotta mountains of old oil and date jars to pick the best shades of dusty pink or faded burnt sienna. New pots £10-£50, antiques from £100. All frost-proof.

Tea and lanterns

Now it really was tea time. We zipped back to the souk where Jaouad Cherkaoui served mint infusions at his exotic lantern emporium of decorative pierced punchwork designs from £45 (starting price at John Lewis, £99). I fell for a hexagonal hallway light in faded, recycled brass, £150, and had the coloured panes replaced with frosted glass.

Inspiration

For lunch, the cool, airy interiors of restaurant-cum-gallery Ryad Tamsna (00 212 4 438 5272, www.tamsna.com) in the medina were perfect for chilled tomato soup and lemon chicken with couscous. For accommodation, try Jnane Tamsna (00 212 4 432 9134, www.tamsna.com) guest house, Le Palmeraie; Riad Enija (00 212 4 444 09 26, www.riadenija.com), Rahba Lakdima, Derb Mesfioui No 9 or Villa des Orangers (00 212 4438

4638, www.villadesorangers.com), 6 rue Sidi Mimoun.

Bring it home

Some manufacturer-retailers offer a bespoke service with samples ready for inspection before you leave the city. Since Le Souk has its own export licence, Ali can arrange packing and shipping of custommade or bulkier items.

On the inaugural trip we focused on wares to furnish a London pad in mod-Moroccan style. But he can adapt the trip to suit anyone looking for jewellery or clothing. Prices were roughly half those you'd pay for similar items at London stores but remember you pay between five and 15 per cent duty on anything above the £145 duty-free customs allowance.

Way to go

Le Souk (01865 557617) runs three-night shopping trips to Marrakech, escorted by Ali Zbari, eight times a year. The next takes place between 10-13 June. Maximum four people. It costs £425pp, including accommodation at four-star Hotel Tichka, breakfast, transfers and driver. Flights from £270pp with Royal Air Maroc on 020 7439 4361 (quote Le Souk). More information: Moroccan Tourist Office (020 7437 0073). Le Souk's showroom at The Depot, 2 Michael Road, SW6, is open by appointment (0778 068 3961).

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