Croatia's craggy Istrian peninsula is best reached by Ryanair's service to Trieste, in Italy, followed by a saunter round the coast in a hire car. Rovinj is a Venetian clutter around a port. By day, everything moves as slowly as a sundial. When evening cools things, the port whirs into life, all calamari and cold beers. Start off with Zanzi-bar beside the waters, for clubby sounds, then proceed to one of the best sunset spots in the world: Caffe Bar Valentino, to drink margaritas as the Adriatic blazes, then turns pewter. (Holiday Options: 0800 731 7362)