In Spain, superchef Ferran Adrià is "as easily recognised as King Juan Carlos," says Tatler restaurant critic Jeremy Wayne. At his three-Michelinstarred El BullÃ, three hours from Barcelona, diners are given endless rounds of tapas, from savoury ice-creams to barnacles in aspic with tea foam. Reservations: bulli@elbulli. com, 0034 972 150457. Or try Adrià's La AlquerÃa, at Hacienda Benazuza, outside Seville (call Harlequin on 01708 850 300).