Those in the know check in at the elegant, blue-tinged, low-spreading Hacienda Pinsaquí - the epitome of restored colonial cool. Dating from 1790, it was originally a textile workshop - general Simón Bolívar came to rest his spurs here. South American chic is displayed effortlessly in whitewashed walls, dark stained wood and tiled tranquillity. An intimate place to stay, the 16 individual suites are rich in period décor with original fireplaces. Blue-and-white tiled bathrooms have whirlpool tubs, among other surprising details, while outdoors llamas wander in the sprawling exotic gardens. A 10-day tour with Audley Travel (01869 276210) staying at other haciendas as well as Pinsaqu?, from £2,000pp (based on two sharing) B&B, including flights.