Stobo Castle

(01721 760249; www.stobocastle.co.uk)

WHERE: The Manor Valley, Border country, near Peebles. By air to Edinburgh then a £40 taxi transfer, or scenic route on GNER (08457 225225) to Edinburgh (one-month Apex Bargain Return, £36) then bus to Peebles, from where Stobo is a £7 cab ride. The spa is set in a Scottish baronial castle built in the early 19th century, family-owned and run. The setting warrants the journey.

WHO GOES: Rotund wifeys "fae Glasgae", his 'n' hers Jag owners, Edinburgh mums and daughters, the odd male and, apparently, Joan Collins.

SPA CREDO: Optional consultation on arrival (blood test, but not much else), essential fitness analysis included in the health-andfitness programme, low-fat meals calorie-counted, tea and fruit only between meals, which are served early (eg, dinner 6pm-8pm).

SPA FACILITIES: Fresh-air fiends will benefit most - round off your hiking in the hills or mountain biking in the upper Tweed with a massage, steam and Austrian Moor peat bath. A £5 million development - including a 25-metre pool (the current offering is disappointingly tiny), thalassotherapy centre, aerobics studio and airconditioned gym - is to be built on to the existing facilities, which are looking dated, beginning in August. It is expected to take one year. The limited selection of classes currently take place in a large castle reception room. The open flotation room is great, as is the sanarium (a cross between a sauna and steam room), complete with rainforest soundtrack. There are also hair and nail studios, 25 treatment rooms, and a shop where Pat will happily point you in the direction of special offers. Along with bikes and hiking maps, there is a Japanese water garden, fitness trail and tennis court.

TREATMENTS: The usual - using Phytomer, Darphin, Thalgo, Finders Dead Sea products and Mavala - and less usual complementary stuff such as polarity therapy and cosmolight. Stobo's own Sensa cleansers and creams are rather gloopy. However, the water is so soft that southerners can leave the moisturiser at home. Ask for a senior therapist.

ACCOMMODATION: There are three room types - Standard, Classic and Deluxe, individually decorated in a tasteful mix of bold prints and patterns. Big TVs. Own tea and coffee (no shortbread). Most rooms have views - some Deluxe ones have French windows on to the garden - except some ground-floor Standard. In winter, avoid the Classics, with chilly turret shower rooms. Melrose is a pretty pink-and-white single room on the second floor. There's also Park Lodge, a five-bedroom house, in the grounds. Bathrobe, but no slippers, are provided. There is a deep-sofa'ed drawing room with a large fireplace, sadly fuelled by log-effect gas.

FOOD: Abundant fruit at all times, cereals and eggs for breakfast, good fresh soups, buffet lunch, grilled fish, red meat and daily vegetarian options at dinner. Wine. No option to eat alone as meals are served at large round communal tables.

SERVICE: Impeccable in the castle, friendly and relaxed in the spa.

RECOMMENDED PACKAGE: Park Lodge is the best deal now - £99 per person, per night. The Health and Beauty Plan offers two nights, two massages, a manicure and face massage. Normally £240 in a standard room, there's a 25 per cent discount for sharers, so two pay £180 each per night. Pay £20 extra for fitness analysis.

TIP: Take advantage of good rates in July and August, when local clientele are in the Med. Sharing a twin costs £139 per person per night, including daily back massage.