Vintage Portugal

The next morning, it was straight on to another rattly tram and off to explore Belem. If you only had one day in Lisbon, this would be the place to go. It's a long, rambling district on the banks of the vast Tagus, packed with must-sees from Lisbon's past and present including several of the best museums.

First stop, though, is Salazar's immense, Fascistic monument to Portugal's great explorer Prince Henry the Navigator, built in the shape of a huge ship and dazzlingly white against the bright blue sky. On the square below is a marble map of the world, on which the monument's shadow traces the explorer's progress.

We crammed ourselves into the minuscule lift and zoomed to the top, there to peer over the balustrade for a dizzying view of the city below. After a brief interlude watching an ant-sized fisherman struggling to land a fish, we descended for a stroll around the antiques market, popular with locals and their coatwearing dogs.

Alas, our hopes of a bargain were dashed: the famous Portuguese blue-and-white azulejos tiles cost about £20 each, and when we tried to haggle, we were met with gentle smiles and pitying shakes of the head - such things, it seems, are just not done in this genteel capital. It was obviously time for a little culture.

My husband, inspired by the monument, was desperate to see the Maritime Museum, with its replicas of every kind of Portuguese boat; I wanted to try the Design Museum, said to be one of the world's best.

So we compromised with a visit to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a fantastically ornate Gothic monastery housing the tombs of Portugal's heroes - the explorer and soldier Vasco da Gama, who was responsible for Portuguese domination of Indian Ocean trade, and his chronicler, the poet Luis de Camoes. The quality of the light filtering into the nave made us feel holy and pure. Thankfully, the remedy to such emotion was a moment's walk away.

The Antiga Casa de Pasteis de Belem is dedicated to earthly pleasures; namely, the local speciality, a sticky, spicy custard tart. Be prepared to battle with seething crowds in the shop. Otherwise, food in Lisbon can be rather a let-down. Bacalhau, or salt cod, is to Lisboetas what fish and chips are to us. There are so many bacalhau recipes that it is said you can eat it a different way every day of the year. If that is true, then I pity them.

We tried the stuff at a brasserie in the old town called Bota Alta ('The High Boot'), and that is pretty much how it tasted. One suspects home cooking might have been one of the reasons why Portuguese seafarers played such a prominent role in seeking new horizons.

Now, though, Lisbon is opening itself up to new influences and modern European restaurants are opening all over the city. One of the foremost in terms of chic and people-watching is the Bica do Sapato, part-owned by Hollywood star John Malkovich, who fell in love with Lisbon while filming there several years ago.

Decadently, we consumed lobster and champagne, while some 40ft above us on the other side of a glass wall, sparks leapt up into the night as rough-looking seamen welded containers on the deck of a freighter. Their seafaring forebears would have been proud.

Solar do Castelo, Lisbon: need to know
Solar do Castelo is a handsome, 18th-century building with a prime spot in the oldest part of Lisbon, actually inside the walls of the Castelo de Sao Jorge.

Once the home of various aristocratic families, the mansion, which stands on the site of the castle's kitchens, was turned into a hotel in 2002. The streets are so narrow here that you have to get out of your taxi and into a golf-cart for the last 200 metres up the cobbled hill to the hotel, but it's worth the hassle: it's as quiet here as if you were in the depths of the countryside.

Inside, the sitting room is enormous and glamorously contemporary with leather sofas, scattered rugs and stone walls and floors. For those who require such things, there is also a 'fitness facility' - but to be honest, the walk up to the hotel is exercise enough.

The bedroom
Small and wood-panelled, it had the air of a ski-lodge. The beige décor was unexceptional, but the bed was super-comfortable, and the views of the castle (and of its resident peacocks, which acted as our daily alarm call) were superb.

The bathroom
Basic and small but perfectly serviceable with a pretty view over tiled roofs. Take your own toiletries.

The food
Expect a vast buffet of sausage, bacon, eggs etc, plus bowls of muesli and fresh fruit, and freshly squeezed juices. If the weather agrees, you can eat outside in the pretty courtyard with its ornamental pool.

Fellow guests
Oddly, Germans on romantic breaks.

Extra treats
An honesty bar in the spacious sitting room was an appealing touch; staff at the front desk were extremely helpful. Solar do Castelo, Rua das Cozinhas 2, Lisbon. For more details or to make a booking, call Exsus Travel on 020 7292 5050 or visit www.exsus.com

Out and about in Lisbon

Pop into the Castelo de Sao Jorge and climb the crumbly ramparts for a fabulous view of Lisbon. Then take the number 28 tram down the hill to the city centre. The Belem area is stuffed with monuments, museums and restaurants. See the immense monument to Prince Henry the Navigator and the Gothic Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. From here, it's a twominute walk to the archaeology and maritime museums and the Centro Cultural de Belem.

There's a huge junk market here at the weekend. Try the custard tarts at the Antiga Casa de Pasteis de Belem. It's well worth visiting the Oceanario, in the Parque das Naçoes, open daily from 10am to 6pm. It's the world's second-largest aquarium, containing four enormous tanks, each representing a different ocean with the appropriate fish, bird, animal and plant life.

When you're done, stroll along the banks of the Tagus, six miles wide at this point.

At night, a trip to a fado club is more or less compulsory but be sure to book in advance. Try the Clube de Fado in picturesque Alfama (21 885

2704), an atmospheric restaurant owned by a fado guitarist. Or try Senhor Vinho (21 397 7456), a famed fado house that attracts some of the best fadistas.

Getting there
It's about a two-and-a-half-hour flight from London to Lisbon. Exsus Travel (020 7292 5050) offers three nights at the Solar do Castelo hotel from £395 per person, based on two sharing. The price includes B&B accommodation in a standard room, return economy British Airways flights from London Heathrow and return airport transfers in Lisbon.

Places to stay
As Janelas Verdes (21 396 8143) is a romantic, if pricey, boutique hotel dating from the 18th century that stands next to the National Art Museum.

Estalagem do Muchaxo (21 487 0221), a converted fort, overlooks the huge Guincho beach and has its own saltwater pool and lobster bed. A good way to get away from the Lisbon hustle, as it's outside town in the seaside resort of Cascais.

Pensao York House (21 396 2435) is a one-time Carmelite convent which got its name in the 19th century when a pair of Yorkshire women rented it and turned it into a guesthouse. It's very popular and has literary connections: past guests have included John le Carré and Graham Greene.

Restaurants
Bica do Sapato (21 881 0320), part-owned by John Malkovich, is well worth a visit, despite the high prices. The décor is industrial modern, the views of the dock spectacular and the food delicious - a welcome change from the standard local fare.

Pap'Açorda (21 346 4811) is an atmospheric and friendly little place, highly popular with the trendy set, serving traditional Portuguese food.

A Tasquinha d'Adelaide (21 396 2239) seats just 24 guests at a time, so reservations are essential. Food is hearty and meat-orientated.

Celeb spotting
Posh, Becks and the entire England football team will be here in June for Euro 2004. Britney Spears will be here during the same month, performing along with Sting and, er, Guns N' Roses, at Lisbon's Bela Vista Parque.