A billion pounds has gone into resurrecting Manchester's centre after the IRA bombing of 1996 and into making this work. Few tickets remain unsold and an estimated million spectators-will attend. There are 5,000 official volunteers but everyone seems like a volunteer, including the old lady who, on seeing a friend of mine wearing an accreditation tag and about to get in his car, took him gently by the arm and warned: "Look, love. Don't forget, we drive on the left over here."