Photography Bummaree: Photographs Of Smithfield

At Billingsgate, a bummaree was a middleman; at Smithfield, a porter. Where the term came from, however, is less cut and dried: Billingsgate favour a derivation from the French, 'bonne maree', meaning fresh seafood; the Smithfield version is less refined - a natural evolution from the act of prodding recalcitrant cattle in the posterior (bum, rear).

Chris Clunn spent three years at Smithfield as it headed for temporary closure. His collection of images document more than the end of an era: he has immortalised a group of men for whom life was toil and tradition, the years of work and experience evident in the creases of their skin. Incredibly, 60 per cent of the workforce were over 50, the remainder over 65; these were hard grafters, all right.

In an age when we like life clean, compartmentalised and conscience-free, Clunn's photographs are a welcome reminder that there is a more fundamental force greasing our antiseptic wheels. Up to their necks in carcasses, these men lugged and laughed with equal ferocity. The pubs opened at 4.30am - time for a swift pint or two before the shift - and the local cafes served up legendary breakfasts to fuel hungry stomachs.

This way of life has resumed at the newly refurbished Smithfield, but modern hygiene standards and EU guidelines have ended many working practices that had remained unchanged for 130 years. Still, with eight centuries of history behind it, you can be sure the market will be catering to London's butchers for a long time to come.

Until Oct 15, Fior Photo, 53 Exmouth Market EC1, Tue to Sat 11am to 5pm, free. Tel: 020 7278 8202.

Tube: Angel