Just before midnight on 16 October 1998, two London plainclothes policemen arrested an 82-year-old South American. The old man, who spoke almost no English, was on a private visit, having surgery at the London Clinic for a spinal hernia. And, like the typical wealthy tourist, he had done the sights: Madame Tussaud's, the National Army Museum, Fortnum and Mason. He had bought books about Napoleon at Foyles. The charges laid at his door, however, made it clear that General Augusto Pinochet, former dictator of Chile, was not your run-of-the-mill visitor. He was arrested for crimes against humanity, including torture, genocide and ordering disappearances.