Humble pie for Delia

One is a household name. But the other is apparently a household necessity.

A relative unknown has beaten the culinary might of Delia Smith in a vote on the most useful kitchen companion.

Simon Hopkinson's book, Roast Chicken and Other Stories, beat Delia's Complete Cookery Course to the number one spot.

After poring over a collection of cook books, a panel of chefs, restaurant owners and writers decided Mr Hopkinson's 1994 work was the most indispensable title to have on the kitchen shelf.

It was described as a 'magical book' of 'incredible value'.

The judges added: 'This volume may not contain every dish you might ever want to cook, but the ones it has epitomise the way we love to eat today.'

Delia, who has sold 17million books, taught a generation how to boil an egg and comes to the rescue of many a flustered dinner party host, was placed second in the poll.

Her Complete Cookery Course, the first part of which was published in 1978, was commended for its ' ultrareliable' recipes. The judges praised the notes that accompany them which 'seem to answer all your questions before you've even asked them'.

They said: 'Whether you're an absolute beginner or an experienced cook trying out a variation on a classic, you're never alone if Delia's on your shelf.'

Two other well-known titles follow in third and fourth place - Nigel Slater's Real Fast Food and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's The River Cottage Meat Book.

The vote was carried out for the Waitrose Food Illustrated magazine. William Sitwell, the magazine editor, described Roast Chicken and Other Stories, co-written by food writer Lindsay Bareham, as an 'amazing' book.

'This is not about beautiful pictures or fashionable names and global TV shows, this is about fundamental usefulness,' he said. 'If you only had to buy one cookbook for British cooking, this is the one.'