This year may mark the 500th anniversary of a painting that has a not unreasonable claim to have become the most famous in the world: the Mona Lisa, by Leonardo da Vinci. We are, however, by no means certain of the date of what we see — the first thoughts about the portrait may have been initiated in 1502, but the final surface, the finish by which we judge it, could well be a decade later, later still, according to come experts. For five centuries or so, men have been bewitched, bothered and bewildered by this woman’s enigmatic smile and, until the ingenious Lewis Carroll invented the grin of the disappearing Cheshire Cat, it had no beguiling rival.