One of the techniques he uses is to be rude about both sides, though in judiciously different ways. Surprisingly few writers on the Holy Land - too deeply mired in the overwhelming, intractable grimness of the place, perhaps - take the trouble to evoke for us the sheer ghastliness of a place like Tel Aviv, where you can't even get a decent cup of coffee. "For years Israelis have cheerfully sipped an awful substance called bots, or 'mud', a bastardisation of Turkish coffee," he writes. "Instead of delicately boiling and reboiling water, ground coffee, sugar and cardamom into a perfumed nectar, as has been done in the Levant for centuries, Israelis take a glass of hot water, throw in cheap ground coffee, stir it for a moment with sugar, and serve up the mud." It's a small but canny detail and tells us more than reams of political analysis what the place is really like.