Scotland's spa attraction

Gritty northern city? Not when you're chilling out in a warm, aroma-infused thermal suite. Three five-star hotels in Edinburgh - The Scotsman, The Sheraton and The Balmoral - have spent the past six months perfecting new in-house spas. All now offer cutting-edge treatments using E'Spa products in supremely stylish environments. Moreover, all three hotels are city-central and their rates compare very favourably with any nationwide.

Escape at The Scotsman Hotel

Occupying the lower floors of the landmark building that once housed The Scotsman newspaper, Escape is lean and modern, with minimal use of colour and dramatically effective spotlighting. The steel-and-slate pool is the club's focal point, around which are the steam room, sauna and sanarium - a cross between a sauna and a steam room. Five treatment rooms (dark colours, beds swaddled in the thickest butter-cream towels and electric blankets). First-class treatment menu. Two cool and spacious relaxation rooms.

Top treatment: 90-minute Aromatherapy Back, Face and Scalp Treatment (£65) with hot volcanic stones includes a facial that really should be prescribed on the NHS. Application of "pink scalp mudî leaves you pleasantly tingling.

? The Scotsman (0131 556 5565; www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk). Weekend rates, £135-£195 a night for a double B&B.

One Spa at The Sheraton Grand

The six-storey spa at the back of the hotel is a comprehensive operation - there are 12 treatment rooms, plus hydrotherapy and manicure rooms, a gym and huge mosaic pool, 10 therapists and an extensive menu of treatments. "Smart" wristwatches gain access to different areas. On the top floor, you can sit in an open-air bubbling hot mineral bath; emerge from a " tropicarium" and smear yourself with crushed ice or relax on curvaceous loungers around the spa with a pot of jasmine tea for company. Best of all are the restaurants- - authentic and delicious Italian cuisine.

Top treatment: Ayurvedic Holistic Body Treatment (two hours, £110). Soaking your feet in a bowl of water with floating rose petals leaves you almost too relaxed to stand.

? The Sheraton Grand (0131 229 9131; www.sheratongrand.co.uk). Weekend rates, £120-£226 a night for a double B&B.

The Spa at The Balmoral

The Balmoral's strengths are its intimacy and personal service, led by Annette Beuth, originally a remedial, rather than just a beauty, therapist. The list of treatments is up-to-date, but Annette's approach is holistic, and she tailors to individual needs - something that can only be done with experience, confidence and intuition. Poolside there are only limited loungers, but the juice bar does a decent smoothie and there are steam and sauna facilities. The gym is small and the sunbed has been traded in for the St Tropez tanning treatment.

Top treatment: Holistic Total Body Care treatment (£85), including Indian head massage.

? The Balmoral Hotel (0131 556 2414; www.roccofortehotels.com). Spa package £135 per person per night, including a choice of treatments, breakfast and lunch.

The late spa escape