Sandy bays galore in Skiathos

With nearly 70 beaches and a lively capital town, Skiathos is an ideal chill-out island. Don't expect classical sites and Greek culture, but it's hard to beat for sun, sand and facilities. In Skiathos Town, Ben Hill and Jenny Downey from Sydney are touring the Greek islands. "We've met some really nice people," says Jenny. "This is a really buzzing town." Bob and Irene Goode and Phil and Jenny Wilson from South Yorkshire prefer to get away from it all. "Night life isn't that important to us. The beaches here are fabulous."

On the beach

West of the capital, Skiathos's coastline unfurls in a succession of golden sandy bays. Megali Amnos, Vromolimnos and Troulos have shallow sloping beaches and all the usual watersports. Koukounaries is a "protected area beach" with pine trees and a lagoon, popular with Greek tourists. Over the hill, Agia Eleni is quieter and prettier. To the north, Asselinos Bay is windswept and rugged. Some of Skiathos's best beaches are accessible only by boat. Day trips run to unspoiled Mandraki and Lalaria beaches from Skiathos Town; around £8pp, but hard-bargain down to £3-£4. Sample beach prices: sunloungers £3 per day; waterski/jet ski £12; pedalos £8 per hour.

What's everybody reading?

Hannibal by Thomas Harris, The English by Jeremy Paxman, Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire by JK Rowling.

Best beach bars

Giorgio's at Maratha, shaded by trees overlooking peaceful beach. Amstel £1.20; great tuna sandwiches for £1. Sunset Taverna at Agia Eleni has tables on the sand, good Greek food; lunch with wine about £5 (lives up to its name in the evenings). Elsewhere, expect to pay £1.20 for tea or coffee, £1 for a Coke and 30p for a take-away ice-cream.

Clubs 2000

Most of the action is on two neon-lit strips in Skiathos Town: Banana Bar, in Politehniou Street, is a Brit favourite, also Blue Chips, opposite. Eastern end of the harbour is more cosmopolitan: Arena, Remezzo and Kahlua, £1 cover, drinks around £2 a shot. Most open till around 3.30am.

Where to go if you're ... Bored with the beach: hire a car (most reliable is Hertz: 23707) for around £30 a day; motorcycle £10 per day. The two venerable monasteries of Kounistra and Evangelista are easy drives from town, although there is a limited road network. Alternatively hire a caïque from the west side of Skiathos harbour, and see Skiathos from the water. In the very north is the Kastro, a 14th-century settlement built by islanders to defend themselves against pirate raids. Spectacular views. For groups, Skopelos Express has round-island tours for about £10pp. Dolphin Diving Centre at Porto Nostos, £22 per dive, equipment included. Day trip by Flying Dolphin hydrofoil (£10 return, several daily) to neighbouring Skopelos and Alonissos for old-fashioned harbours and craft shops.

Falling in love: western beaches at sunset. Most romantic restaurant is English-run The Windmill (24550), in a converted 19th-century windmill above town. Food (eg, Thai fish cakes with chilli sauce, expect to pay £40 for two with wine) as good as the views. Book the Honeymoon table, a two-person balcony.

Suffering: English-speaking Medical Centre, Skiathos Town (22222).

This week's deals

Paul Mansfield stayed at the self-catering, waterfront Aegean Apartments in Skiathos Town. Simply Travel (020 8541 2277) has seven nights here for £475pp, departing 1 September. Seven nights at the Vromolimnos Villas at Kalamaki is £499pp (£645 for 14 nights), including car hire and return flights, departing 1 September.

Sunvil Holidays (020 8568 4499) has availability on flights to Skiathos leaving tomorrow, for £249 return; or depart 24 or 31 August for seven nights at the Ourania Apartments, £375pp (£403pp for 14 nights). Libra Holidays (020 8275 5500) has seven nights self-catering (accommodation allocated on arrival) for £369pp, including return flights, departing 21 August. Amathus (020 7611 0901) has seven nights B&B at the three-star Plaza Hotel for £577, including flights, departing daily from 22 to 28 August.