The place is grand but laid-back, with creature comforts at every turn - fat armchairs, crackling fires, large G&Ts proffered to soporific guests prone on sofas. This, as any knowledgeable Japanese tourist will tell you, is Wordsworth country. You may well want to wander lonely as a cloud over distant fells, but The Samling is designed to induce a lazy haze. Until recently, the ten-room hotel was only available for hire in its entirety, but now guests can opt for a single suite. It's not cheap, but it is exceedingly special: hot buttered toast and late breakfasts are served in your room; picnics for hikes can be arranged; and the dining room serves the kind of food that demands you walk it off the next day. The Samling's bitter chocolate tart would surely get into heaven if it wasn't so wicked.