Present scents

Make a last-minute dash into the beauty hall of any department store this week and, mingling with the clouds of perfume, you'll probably detect a strong whiff of desperation. The Christmas market has been bombarded with big-designer fragrances. But though it seems as if we're spoiled for choice, only a few really stand out.

There is an appealing lightness about many of the new launches but there is a fine line between subtle and bland. 'Lighter fragrances are popular but people want to smell a scent that they recognise,' says Angela Creasy, head of beauty at Liberty. 'Marc Jacobs' latest perfume, Blush, for example, has a clear jasmine scent.'

Prada's long-awaited debut perfume may be demurely packaged in a discreet pink box but it blossoms on the skin into a hot, heady aroma that is distinctive, yet delicate enough to appeal to modern noses.

The label alone makes this the fashionista's choice, while spicy notes of amber, patchouli, benzoin and sandalwood will appeal to anyone who likes the challenge of a grown-up fragrance that's full-bodied and multi-layered.

You won't find Christian Dior's latest men's colognes (the first the house has launched since

1947) in the beauty halls but in the Dior Homme boutiques within Harrods and Selfridges.

Created with input from menswear designer Hedi Slimane, their clean, oldfashioned formulae appeal to women as well as men. They include Cologne Blanche, a sweet orange blossom and vanilla scent; the spicy Eau Noire, which blends lavender, cedar and vanilla; and Bois d'Argent, with notes of iris, myrrh and patchouli.

Other new arrivals include Versace's Crystal Noir, a sweet gardenia scent inside a very

blinging bottle; Vivienne Westwood's full-blown, rosescented Anglomania; and Paul Smith's London, which contrasts slick, modern packaging with a swinging Sixties-inspired scent. Hip dads will love it.

When it comes to Christmas shopping, though, the old ones are often the best. Chanel launched No 5 in 1921 and its iconic status is appealing to a new generation of consumers with a new ad campaign featuring Nicole Kidman.

Of the young contenders, Agent Provocateur's signature fragrance, launched in 2000, is tipped as one to look out for. 'It isn't as sweet as many women's fragrances and has a classic vetiver base,' explains Creasy. Sounds good. And, unlike vouchers, it won't look as if you bought it at the last minute.

Agent Provocateur eau de parfum, from £39 for 50ml. Blush, by Marc Jacobs, from £49 for 50ml. Bois d'Argent, Cologne Blanche and Eau Noire, by Christian Dior, from £55 for 125ml. Chanel No 5 eau de parfum, from £46 for 50ml.

Prada Eau de Parfum Intense, £80 for 50ml. Paul Smith London, from £24 for 30ml. Versace Crystal Noir, £44 for 50ml. Vivienne Westwood's Anglomania, £35 for 30ml.