Postcard from... Cancun

It's the Americans' Ibiza. Cancun, on Mexico's Caribbean coastline, plays host each year to two million US tourists, who sip margaritas on tropical white-powder beaches by day and cruise its exuberant clubs and bars by night. Increasing numbers of Brits - an estimated 300,000 in 2002 - are joining the party.

The city is divided into two areas. The hotel zone, a 25km long, narrow island lined with luxury, all-inclusive hotels, US-style shopping malls, steakhouses and Tex Mex restaurants, is linked by bridges to mainland Cancun, which is modern, unstructured and more Mexican in atmosphere. Loraine and Philip Edgell, with son Daniel, 11, were enthusiastic about the comfort in the all-inclusives: "The fact that they cater for Americans means that standards are high." Leanne Michell and Tommy Roberts from Bexleyheath thought the nightlife was "fun - the English stick together". Julia Pettman and Simon Earl, from Gravesend, had one quibble: "You need to go on excursions to feel you're really in Mexico." Top activity? Unanimously, swimming with dolphins. Kaye Buckley from Rainham, Kent, on holiday with husband Neil, said: "It was brilliant. I didn't stop smiling for four days."

On the beach...

Hotels have their own strip of sand: slip through the Hilton for groomed grains and crystal-clear water. The northernmost beaches can be seaweedy. The stretch behind the Hyatt Regency has the liveliest atmosphere. Watersports abound (operators may insist on US dollars): waverunners cost around £34 for half an hour, parasailing £34 for 20 minutes, banana boat £6 for 15 minutes. For a fiesta flavour join Mexican families munching tacos on public Playa Delfines.

What's everybody reading?

Harry Potter, three-for-£10 WH Smith novels (Adele Parks, Jane Green, etc), Jack magazine.

Best beach bars

In the hotel zone, bars have decks that dangle over a croc-populated lagoon. Brit hangout Pat O'Brien's has glass-balancing shenanigans and Montejo beer for £3 but no Guinness. Senor Frogs offers live reggae and cocktails with giveaway names such as Brain Damaged and Alka Seltzer, from £3.60. For civilised sipping, head for Lorenzillo's Lobster House's whitewashed pier - zingy margaritas £4.

Clubs 2002

US college kids on tequila sprees dominate the party strip of the hotel zone. Coco Bongo has a circus theme, with jugglers and dancers: trance techno, 10pm-4am, £8 entry, drinks £2.50-£5. Daddy'O is a pure pop palace: 10pm-4am, entry £11; £19 with "open bar" (drink all you can). Downtown, Mexjazz and flamenco fusion floats into the streets from ultra-cool Roots Jazz Club, 25 Tulipanes: noon-1am, Italian food, £2.30 cover. For a tourist-free night of latin house with Dominican and Cuban showbands, head for the Mambocafe in Plaza Las Americas, 10pm-4am, £3.80 men; £2.30 women.

Bored with the beach?

Chichen Itza's restored Mayan pyramid/temples - prepare for spine-tingling tales of human sacrifice - are a mustsee; hotel tours around £50. View Jacques Cousteau's favourite reef on a day trip to Isla Contoy wildlife sanctuary with Asterix (886 4847), £57, which stops off for snorkelling among barracuda and turtles. Cruise La Isla shopping mall for Mexican collectibles - metal star lights from £30, vibrant paintings £100-plus. Dive with dolphins at the Interactive Aquarium in La Isla mall, £74, or, in a less confined ocean environment, with Dolphin Discovery (883 0777), £91.

Suffering

Most hotels have US-trained doctors, around £50. International medical centre: 883 0113.

Falling in love

Throw a white-bikini wedding à la Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee, who tied the knot on Cancun beach. Less drastically, chocolate Chichen Itza pyramid is the finale of a meal at downtown Caribbean seafood restaurant La Habichuela, 25 Calle Margaritas. Three courses in a garden strung with fairy lights costs around £70 for two.

Jane Hayward travelled to Mexico with First Choice (0870 750 0001) and stayed at the foursun-plus Hotel Iberostar Tucan in Playacar on the Riviera Maya south of Cancun; 14 nights departing Gatwick 24 September, £1,149pp all inclusive; 14 nights at the threesun Caribbean Princess overlooking the lagoon, £1,049 all-inclusive, departing Gatwick 17 September or £799 24 September.

This week's deals

JMC (08705 777 555) has 14 nights at the three-star Carousel Hotel departing Gatwick 29 September, £911 allinclusive.
Mytravel (0870 241 5339) has three seven-night holidays departing Gatwick 25 September: two-star selfcatering apartment £439pp, three-star all-inclusive hotel £529, and five-star all-inclusive hotel £579, all accommodation allocated on arrival. Seven nights at the four-star-plus Moon Palace Hotel, 20 minutes south of Cancun on the Riviera Maya, £1,165pp all-inclusive with Hayes & Jarvis (0870 8989890). Depart Gatwick Tuesdays from 17 September to 21 October.

This Is Travel has everything you need to know about Mexico www.thisistravel.co.uk