Portugal's paradise playground

Never been to Portugal before. After half a week in Pine Cliffs, I'm still not sure I have.

Set atop a typical stretch of burnt-amber coastline where the Algarve meets the Atlantic, this is one of those enclaves where they lay on escapism with a trowel. You have no concept of a less-manicured world outside the perimeter walls. It could be Mexico, it could be Greece - anywhere with white walls and reliable sun and a balmy sea breeze to shave the edge off the heat.

It's the first time I've taken a holiday where there is no encouragement to pursue an interest in local culture. If you're not playing golf, you're lying by the pool. If you're not on the beach, you're playing tennis. Or you're in the gym, the hairdresser's, the Jacuzzi, the massage room. You may be simply wandering under the shaded pines across nail-scissored lawns. And all the time your children are being entertained in the special enclavewithinthe-enclave. The one place you're not is Portugal.

Somehow, though, it doesn't matter. At first I felt hot waves of guilt every time I thought about that trip to the castle and narrow streets of Silves I wasn't leading the family on. But then I had a golf lesson with a white-haired sage called Norman and started pondering deeply the mechanics of my back-swing. The next morning, I thought we could nip out to Albufeira, the nearest town, but then I had a round of golf on Pine Cliffs' pretty nine-holer. I lost a ball off the first tee, probably because I was thinking too hard about the outside world, but dragged Norman's precepts back to mind and rescued the round. Keep your head still. Keep your eye on the ball.

What works for golf pretty much works for your holiday ethos at Pine Cliffs. Keep your eye on the ball you're having. Don't think about anything else. In our case this was easy. There is a Sheraton hotel on the premises, but we stayed in one of the two-bedroom golf villas. Outside the front door were five tennis courts - three hard and two clay. My daughters, Pascale, nine, and Florence, eight, played several times. My wife, Jenny, had a lesson with a bronzed coach. She promptly beat me.

The other thing outside our window was Porto Pirata, a supervised play area which takes the heat off those parents who pine for a holiday from their own offspring. Pascale and Florence signed up for a couple of sessions that included a treasure hunt, mini-golf, tennis coaching, a bouncy castle and a golf lesson. It may be less easy keeping hyperactive children entertained in the heat of August than in April. The pines cast minimal shade and lunches and snacks are served below decks in one of two pirate ships. For cooling off, there are two shallow pools, but because they rely on the sun to heat the water, take your drysuit if you go in early season. This goes as much for the smart larger pools, one with a waterfall, the other with a swim-up bar. There is a slightly warmer indoor pool, which is very deep to deter small children.

Then there's the ocean, and a narrow strip of surf-splashed beach. A glass lift takes the strain out of the descent. There are towels on tap, shaded sun-loungers and a beach bar that serves the morning's catch for lunch. The restaurants are one of the best things about Pine Cliffs - especially O Pescador, which serves fish al fresco, and Aldar, a Moroccan joint in the hotel basement where you lounge on soft furnishings as you eat a weird and wonderful pigeon in pastry.

Your whole stay feels a bit like that. This gilded cage offers such a level of lotus-eating that after a while you get so lazy you don't want to walk anywhere. Hence the beach lift. If there'd been a suggestions book I would have posited the idea of discreet travelators to ferry you the 10 yards from your front door to the tennis court, or along the fringe of every fairway. Just so long as they don't take you off the premises.

Way to go

Jasper Rees and family flew to Faro with GB Airways (0845 77 333 77), returns from £149 (£131 under 12). Seven nights at Pine Cliffs (0800 960 709) in a luxury, two-bedroom apartment from £2,349 (£3,920 high season) based on four sharing. Green fee (nine holes) £21.80 for residents, tennis lessons from £14, full day's membership at Porto Pirata children's club £17.

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Destination guide: Portugal