Out and about around Verona

Faded nobility at Villa Bogoni (00 39 045 737 0129), via Vittorio Veneto 19a, double room E103. Salons and bedrooms are covered in frescoes by that exuberant mannerist, Giluio Romano, in this six-room hotel in the village of Sorgà, 15 miles south.

Full-on dining at Tre Marchetti (00 39 45 803 0463), vicolo Tre Marchetti 19b) which stays open well after the fat lady has stopped singing. Founded in 1291. Pastissada de caval, a kind of horsemeat stew, bigoli in salsa (handrolled spaghetti in anchovy sauce) and braised rabbit. Around E110 for two with a decent bottle of wine.

Low-key towns of Lake Garda's western shore. Lively and family oriented Salò - lakeside promenade and art nouveau palazzi. Gardone Riviera, where the grand hotels cluster, for cocooning couples. Skip lemon-growing Limone, which has sold its soul to tourism, stop off at Gargnone, where a tiny, but remarkable restaurant, Tortuga (00 39 0365 71251, closed Tues), via XXIV Maggio 3, provides what is probably the best eating experience on Garda - legendary home-made spaghetti served with a sauce of lake fish. Three courses around E150 for two with wine.