Fortnum’s… where real men take afternoon tea, sweetie

Afternoon tea has been given a “butch” makeover at Fortnum & Mason to make it appeal more to men.

The Piccadilly department store, spiritual home of the traditional scones and buns sugar-fest, says it has been astonished by demand.

Fortnum’s new “Savoury Afternoon Tea” — in which Dijon mustard and horseradish sauce replace clotted cream and marzipan — already accounts for more than a third of all teas sold at Fortnum’s despite only being launched last month.

Jane Smyth, head chef at Fortnum’s Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, said: “We were surprised to see male customers in suits starting to come in for business meetings.”

Until its launch, women customers had outnumbered men two to one in the fourth-floor salon.

The meal, priced at £42 or £44 a head depending on whether a “classic” or single estate tea is chosen, still comes served on the traditional tiered stand but without a cake in sight. The bottom level is packed with a range of finger sandwiches.

The next “course” is a selection of savoury scones — ham and cheese with English mustard butter and sundried tomato.

The finale is a range of delicate “afternoon tea savouries” designed by the salon’s kitchen to look as much like cakes as possible — without the sugar rush.

But for the sweet-toothed customer, Fortnum’s still allows a choice from the cake carriage to round things off — at no extra charge.